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CLEVELAND, OHIO 



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DRESSMAKING 

SPECIALTIES 



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InvisibleV&isi 
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Collar 
Support 



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Pitied "Waist Lining 







EAL, PRACTICAL HELPS FOR THE HOME 
and the Professional Dressmaker. Designed for the 
trade and now sold in leading Dry Goods Stores 
everywhere. Carefully manufactured of best ma- 
terials for correct tailoring of garments in prevailing styles. 
You cannot make anyone of these essentials for anywhere near 
the price, nor after hours of tiring effort obtain the perfect fit 
they insure. Use one or all and 

Save Time, Money, Work and Worry 

A— Perfected, almost finished lining for tight-fitting waists, on new 
principle; ready for draping, has hooks and eyes; boned with 
hasted seams ahove;open front or hack. Order by exact size of 
your waist, not bust measurement. Linolawn. 75c., Bray, white 
or nlack percaline, SI. 00; silk Corsica, $3.50 to $4.00. 

B— Produce any shoulder effect desired; greatly improve appearance 
of garment; 15 cents a pair. 

C— Tailor made. (1) front for long coat, of thoroughly shrunken 
linen canvas reinforced with hair-cloth and felt; 50 cents to 
$1.00 (CSS) Eton front, for short coats; very helpful in alter- 
ing or reinforcing fronts, 35 and 50 cents. 

D— "GREANET" (new). A loose-fitting net lining for light, chiffon, 
or lace waists on high, shaped, seamless belt, boned, lias hooks and 
eyes; white or black; cotton, 75 cents; silk *l DO. 

E— Perfect collar supports, invisible, pliable, washable, guaranteed 
rust proof. HEAVILY COVERED WITH PURE SILK FLOSS, 
Black or white; in transparent envelopes, sealed to insure clean- 
liness; 3 for 10 cents, 5 for 15 cents. 

F— Very clever pad; fills in usual hollows around armhole, has 
overlapping padded points for shoulders; 15 cents a pair. 

If you cannotobtain GREAN SPECIALTIES 

at your dealer's, write us. We will supply you 
direct or through a reliable dealer and send you 
a catalogue oj other dressmaking helps. Money 
back, if you are not satisfied. 

Write Dept. "G" 

Grean Shoulder Form and Pad Co., 

327-329 East 34th Street, New York 



Page 1 




IttHtntfittfltt — loral 

Beginners' Voices Carefully Built and Trained 



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COATES SEWING AND DRESS MAKING MANUAL 

Published by Coates Advertising Agency, Cleveland, Ohio 



1.— INTRODUCTION 

2.— TO HOLD THE GOODS 6 

3.— PLAIN AND FANCY STITCHES. 

Lesson 1 . — Knot 6 

2. — Running Stitch 6 

3. — Basting 7 

4. — Backstitch 7 

5.— Slant Stitch 7 

6. — Overcasting and Overhanding 7 

7.— Outline Stitch 8 

8.— Chain Stitch 8 

9.— Cable Stitch 8 

10.— Couch Stitch 9 

1 1.— Catch Stitch 10 

12.— Fagot Stitch 10 

13.— French Knots 10 

14.— Seed Stitch 11 

1 5.— Damask Stitch 11 

16.— Hem Stitch 11 

17.— Cross Stitch 12 

18.— Feather Stitch 13 

19.— Long and Short Stitch 13 

20.— Solid Embroidery 13 

21.— Satin Stitch (French Em- 
broidery) 14 

22.— Embroidery Scallops. . 14, IS, 16 

23.— Blanket Stitch 16 

24.— Button Hole Stitch 16 

25. — Eyelets and Eyelet Embroidery 16 

26.— Punch Work 16, 17 

27.— Braiding 17 

28. — Chevrons, Emblems and Mon- 
ograms 18 

4. -WORKING INSTRUCTIONS. 

Lesson 29. — To Make Buttonholes 20 



CONTENTS 

Page 
5 



30. — Sewing on 
31. — Loops . . 
32. — Darning . 
33.- — Stoting . 
34. — Patching . 
35. — Overhand 
36. — Bands and 



Page 

Buttons 21 

21 

21 

22 

22 
Patch" ".'.'.'.'....... 23 

Folds 24 



37.— Double Folds 24 

38.— Milliner's Fold 24 

39.— Piping 24 

40. — Cording 24 

41. — Seams 24 

42.— Felled Seam 24 

43. — Bound Seam 25 

44. — Strap Seam 25 

45.— Welt Seam 25 

46. — Lapped Seam 25 

47. — French Seam 25 

48.- — Hemming 25 

49. — To Hem Corners 25 

50. — Damask Hem 25 

51.— Rolled Hem 25 

52. — Gathering 26 

53. — Facings 26 

54.— Tucks and Pleats 26 

55.— Shirring 26 

56.— Ruffles 26, 27 

57. — Sewing on Lace or Embroid- 
ery 

58. — Setting in Lace or Embroidery 
59.- — Sewing on Hooks and Eyes 27, 
60. — Putting in Stays and Collar 

Supports 

61. — Marking of Linen and Under- 
wear . 28 

62. — Embroidery Designs 29 



27 
27 
28 

28 



Copyright 1912 by Lydia Trattles Coates 

Page 2 



Inatruflton 



Expression Literature Interpretation Pantomime 

Harmonic Training Art of Play Writing and Criticism 



iFlomtrp Hartlja itaaett (Swr^r) 

Graduate of Harroff School of Expression, Cleveland 

and Graduate of School of Expression, Boston 

Dr. Curry, President 



Bell Doan 1369-R 



9608 Hough Avenue 



CONTENTS 



Page 
5.— NECESSARY SEWING AND DRESS- 
MAKING ACCESSORIES 30 

(A) — Sewing Machine 30 

(B)— Threads 30 

(C)— Sewing Thread 31 

(D) Embroidery Thread 31 

(E) — Hooks and Eyes 31- 33 

(F)— Linings 34- 35 

(G)— Patterns 35 

(H)— Tape 36 

(I)— Dress Shields 37 

(J) —Boning 38 

(K) — Dress Form 39- 40 

(L) — Dress Trimmings 41 

6.— COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS FOR 

SPECIFIC WORK 42 

Lesson 63. — Plackets 42 

64. — Belts and Bands 43 

65. — Yoke and Peplums 43- 44 

66.— High Collars 45 

67.— Tailored Collars 45 

68.— Turn Down Collars 46 

69.— Sleeves 47 

70.— Shirt Waist Sleeves 47 

71. — Cuffs and Lap Closings 48 

72.— Coat Sleeve 48 

73.— Pockets 49 

7.— SPONGING, SHRINKING AND PRESS- 
ING. 

Lesson 74. — Sponging and Shrinking 50 

50 



65 
66 
66 
67 



-Pressing 



75. 
8.— CUTTING. 

Lesson 76. — Cutting 51- 53 

9.— FITTING AND ALTERATIONS. 

Lesson 77. — Fitting and Alterations. . .54- 57 
10.— THE WELL GROOMED WOMAN. 

(A) — The Well Groomed Woman. 58 

(B) — Scientific Beauty Culture 58- 60 

11.— MILADY'S WORDROBE 61 

(A) — Corsets 61 

(B)— Sanitary Belts 62 

(C) — Sanitary Skirt Protectors.... 63 

(D)— Millinery 64 

(E) — Lingerie 64 



Page 

(F) — Shirt Waist Supporter 64 

(G) — Rain Coat and Waterproof 

Garments 

Lesson 78. — Corset Covers 

" 79. — Drawers 

" 80. — Chemise 

" 81.— Night Gowns 67 

82. — Combination Undergarments. 67 

83.— Petticoats 68 

84. — Skirts and Underwear With- 
out Plackets 68 

85. — Dressing Sacques 68 

86. — Kimonas 69 

87.— Aprons 70 

88. — Lingerie Waists 71 

89. — Housekeeping Gowns 71 

90.— Shirt Waists 72 

91.— Making of Gowns 72- 74 

92. — Evening and Dinner Gowns. 75 
93. — Making of Dinner Gowns... 75 
94. — Street, Traveling and Busi- 
ness Costumes 76 

95.— Dress Skirts 76 

96. — Jackets and Coats 77- 78 

MATERNITY OUTFIT. 

Lesson 97.- — Maternity Outfit 79 

98. — Maternity Corsets 80 

99. — Maternity Gowns 81 

100. — Maternity Skirts 81 

13.— SCHOOL GIRLS' SUPPLIES. 

Lesson 101. — The Young Lady's Wardrobe 82 

" 102.— Girl's School Dress 83 

" 103.— Girl's -Gowns 83 

14 —CHILDREN'S CLOTHES. 

Lesson 104. — Children's Dresses 84 

" 105.— Children's 
" 136. — Children's 
" 107. — Rompers 

15.— INFANT'S OUTFIT 

Lesson 110. — Making the Infant's Outfit.. 

16.— CLEANING 88 

17.— DYEING 91 

18.— LAUNDERING 93 



12. 



Underwear 85 

Coats 85 

86 



86 
87 
93 
92 
94 



Page 3 




OXYDONOR 

"This wonderful little appliance, invented by Dr. H. 
Sanche for the purpose of healing the sick, performs 
cures, which border on miracles." Thus writes 
Edward Rigby of Lisbon, Ohio. 

Are you suffering from Rheumatism, Stomach 
Trouble, Diabetes, Spinal Trouble, Nervous- 
ness, etc., or are any of your family suffering from 
disease? If so, by all means secure one of Dr. 
Sanche's Oxydonor's and by the use of it as direct- 
ed, you will be restored to health. Oxydonor will 
do it, even if all else has failed. The process is natural 
and very simple, but as infallible as the daily rising 
and setting of the sun. Investigate, if you want 
health. 

pREE— Books on Health. 

* Call or Send 10 Cents for Postage. 

Phone, Main 730 Ohio Agency, No. 337 Old Arcade 



INDEX TO ADVERTISERS 



Page 

Adair, Mrs. (Ganesh Toilet Preparation) 59 

A. M. A. Mfg. Co. (Sanitary Protectors) 63 

American Textile Mfg. Co. (Dust Bright) 10 

Arbor Tea Shop 64 

Art Pleating Shoppe 26 

Baird Bros. & Co. (Monarch Polish) 61 

Basch, David (Shirtwaist Belts) 64 

Battle Creek Sanitarium Food Co 5 

Belding Bros. Co. (Sewing Silk) 31 

Belding Bros. Co. (Embroidery Silk) 8 

Belding Bros. Co. (Linings) 34 

Belle Vernon Dairy Co 25, 86 

Berner's Art Store 19 

Boston Dry Goods Co 53 

B. & P. Co. (Wrinkle Eradicators) 58 

Bryson Co. (Sewing Machine Supplies) 51 

Carlton Studio (Art Work) II 

Cedar Cleaning Works 91 

Chandler, Miss L. L. (Public Stenographer)... 5 

Cleveland Credit Clothing Co 72 

Cleveland Dress Trimming Co 41 

College of Science (Acme) 46 

Connelly Co. (Real Estate) 54 

Conover, C. E., Co. (Naiad Dress Shield) 37 

Continental Casualty Co 11 

Creme de Luxe 60 

Cummer Products Co. (Energine Shoe Dressing) 88 
Devoe, F. W., & C. T. Raynolds Co. (Peacock 

Dye) 9 

Dowd, Frank (Dentist) 58 

Electra Pure Water Co. (Katharos) 20 

Ellsworth Facial College 60 

Elwako Mfg. Co. (Elwako Laundry Aid) 93 

Euclid Cafetiere (Lunch Club) 42 

Farr, Mrs. Abbie E. (Piano Instruction) 73 

Fassett, Florence Martha (Expression) 3 

Frederick Piano Co 6 

Fries & Schuele ' . . ' 44 

Fulton, Mrs. R. (Manicuring and Chiropody).. 60 

Grean Shoulder Form and Pad 47 

Grean Dress Making Specialties 1 

Grean Long Coat Front Foundation 77 

Grean Short Coat Front Foundation 78 

Grean's "Greanet" 54 

Grean Fitted Waist Lining 35 

Grean Coat Collars 45 

Grean Arm Pad 48 

Grean Fitted Belt 55 

Griffith Restaurant 24 

Hall, Van Gorder Co. (Havanco Mending Tissue) 22 

Haserot Co. (Senora Coffee) 24 



Page 

Hawley Restaurant 29 

Henke Furniture Co 21 

Hexter's Lining Store 34 

Ideal Faucet Syringe Co 23 

Interstate Drug Co. (Morlene) 12 

Korach, Joseph, & Co 17 

Lawson School of Music 7 

Lickes Drug Co. (Dunham's Specific) 84 

Long, Ellen C. (Book and Art Exchange).... 64 

Mandarin, The 52 

May, Berthe (Corsets) 80 

May Co., The 40 

Miller, T. C. (Dentist) 56 

Monks, Dr. Margaret B. (Osteopathic Physician) 56 

Morehouse Co 33 

Noteman, Mrs. G. Chester (Vocal Instruction). 2 

Ohio Office Furniture Co 5 

Oxydonar 4 

Parrish. J. P. (Funeral Director).. 68 

Pictoral Review Co. (Embroidery Catalog).... 9 

Pictorial Review Co. (Fashion Book) 74 

Pioneer Mfg. Co. (Shino) 50 

Pneumatic Form Co. (Dress Form) 39 

Priestley, B., & Co. (Cravenette) 65 

Public Hand Laundry 94 

Reis Initial Co. (Embroidery Scallops) 14 

Reis Initial Co. (Sleeve Initials) 29 

Reis Initial Co. (Woven Names) 28 

Reis Initial Co. (Embroidery Initials) 18 

Richardson Silk Co 19 

Rosenblum Clothing Co 71 

Sanar Remedy Co 43 

Shaver, C. F., & G. N. (Attorneys at Law) 75 

Shop of Kimonas and Art Laces 69 

Skalla, Maud De Long (Dermatologist) 63 

Smith Carriage & Auto Co 16 

Smith Chemical Co. ("Hair Vim") 76 

Snow Flake Laundry 91 

Stroud, B. E., & C. H. (Domestic Vacuum 

Cleaner) 15 

Swalley's Credit Store 20 

Telling Co. (Ice Cream) 8, 55 

Universal Dry Cleansing Co 89 

Victor Insect Exterminating Co 13 

Warner Hat Shoppe 64 

Warren Featherbone Co 38 

White Sewing Machine Co 13, 30, 31, 55, 66 

Wilson Dress Hook Co 32 

Wright, Wm. E., & Sons Co. (Tape) 36 

Wright, Wm. E., & Sons Co. (Sanitary Belt). 62 

Young Women's Christian Association 7, 57, 76, 83 

Zoa Phora Co 95, 96 



Page 4 



Public Stenographer 
Duplicating 

Miss L. L. 
Chandler 



Central 332 1-K 
Main 1368 



429 The Arcade 



Filing Devices Quigley Desks 

Murphy & Gunlocke Chairs 
Armor-Clad Steel Furniture 

Tables, Cuspidors and other Office Furniture 

THE OHIO OFFICE 
FURNITURE CO. 

1145 Prospect Ave. S. E., Cleveland, Ohio 

Bell, North 1450 



I. 

INTRODUCTION. 

. Many women go without as complete a wardrobe as they would like to 
have or pay out more money than they feel that they should spare to get 
their garments made or are forced to wear unbecoming, non-individual clothes 
simply because they do not know exactly how to cut and fit and make and 
finish the articles of their apparel and without complete instructions before 
them do not feel like risking the time and the material in experimenting. 
On the other hand if they know just how to go ahead and have each step 
made plain for them to follow they could add many beautiful garments to 
their wardrobe at a very small cost. To be sure much that is very helpful 
has been written on the subject of sewing and many of our best magazines 
have given us invaluable information, but many women do not preserve these 
periodicals or have not the time to wade through all the other literature and 
sometimes a labyrinth of instructions to find out the system of properly 
cutting out and putting together and finishing a dress or suit or piece of 
underwear or perhaps doing up a piece of household sewing. For this reason 
this plain, simple and comprehensible set of Sewing and Dress Making Lessons 
have been compiled — without waste of words or unnecessary repetitions. We 
have made the system as brief and as easy as possible and by following faith- 
fully the instructions and always turning to the lessons designated you will 
find that you have a reliable guide to the making of every essential garment 
for your wardrobe. 

Sewing is an art and the woman who clothes herself with an eye to 
bringing out the possibilities of her grace and beauty and best points of individ- 
uality, and hiding any possible defects of her contour or carriage will work as 
an artist, using herself as the model and her materials, trimmings, etc., as the 
means of presenting to the world her ideal of thought. Thus dressmaking will 
become an Art and a Science and a pleasure instead of a nerveracking, labori- 
ous piece of drudgery. 

LAXATIVE BRAN BISCUITS do the work 

"The samples you gave ine were delicious" 

BATTLE CREEK SANITARIUM FOOD CO., 111-112 Old Arcade 



Page 5 



CHAPTER III. 
TO HOLD THE GOODS. 

Always hold the goods in a position so the stitches are taken toward you. 
Sit up straight, hold the work firmly in the left hand, leaving the right hand 
free with which to do the stitches. Never hold the work so as to crush and 
crumble it nor yet so loosely that the stitches are taken unevenly, and do not 
form the bad habit of pinning the work to your skirts and then humping over 
to do it or winding seams over the forefinger of your left hand, but learn 
and practice holding and doing your work properly and sitting erect. 

CHAPTER IV. 
PLAIN, FANCY AND ORNAMENTAL STITCHES. 
Lesson 1. — KNOT. — Thread needle with proper sized thread and hold in 
left hand. Wind thread once over forefinger of right hand and pull tightly. 
Knots should never be visible in any sewing except in basting. Always take 
stitch under the hem or seam to hide knot but in open space where this is 
not possible fasten thread by taking two or three stitches over each other or 
by backstitching (Lesson 4). 

(1) Slant Stitch, Lesson 5. 

(2) Running Stitch, Lesson 2. 

(3) Hemstitch, Lesson 17. 

(4) Basting Stitch, Lesson 3. 




,■■.->,. , , -.oOOCNO'', 



Lesson 2.— RUNNING STITCH.— 

The stitches through the cloth should 
be of exact and equal length. It will 
be in constant use for seams on light 
materials, French seams, hemming of fragile garments, gathering, etc. 



The Proof of the Pudding is in the Eating 

The Proof of "Frederick Service" is 

In the Trying 

Every Record 

Every Victrola $15- $200 

Sound Proof Demonstrating Parlors 



Experienced Salesmen. 



Try Our Superior Service Today. 



W. F. FREDERICK PIANO CO. 



1612 EUCLID AVENUE 



Page 6 



Sewing 

Millinery 

Dressmaking 

Tailoring 

Shirt Waist 
Making 

Trade Class 



Apply to the 

Young Women's Christian 
Association 

Prospect Avenue and East 18th 
Cleveland, Ohio 



West Side Branch 
Franyin and West 32nd 



Broadway Branch 
Broadway and Hollister St. 



Cookery 

Dining Room 
Service 

Dietetics 

Home Nursing 

Home Making 

Chafing Dish 
Cooking 



Lesson 3. — BASTING. — The fundamental principle of all good fitting and 
adjusting lies in the proper basting. Lay your cloth perfectly in place and then 
fasten by taking even or uneven running stitches through the material as in cut. 

Lesson 4.— BACKSTITCH.— Take a few running stitches (see Lesson 2), 
then take a short back stitch back on the upper side and a long stitch forward 
on the under side. Begin next stitch exactly where last stitch left off on upper 
side of sewing (see cut 1). The half back stitch is taken half way back between 
the space of where the thread is drawn through and where the stitch leaves 
off on the upper side. 

Lesson 5.— SLANT STITCH.— Begin at the right and work toward the 
left. Hold your goods with the edges which you are sewing on toward you. 
Insert the needle under the fold, using two or three stitches to hold (never 
knot under a fold). Point the needle toward the left shoulder and pass it 
through a few folds of the material and a few threads of the fold. This is 
one of the most particular lessons in sewing as every stitch must be exactly 
the same in height and distance apart. (See cut 1, page 6). 

Lesson 6.— OVERCASTING AND OVERHANDING.— Baste material with 
edges exactly even or if single trim smooth and even. From under side draw 
needle through cloth exact depth to be overcasted or overhanded and take 
stitch over and through twice to hold firmly. Use Slant Stitch (see Lesson 5), 
varying the distance between stitches according to the quality and thickness 
of the material. The two important features of perfect overcasting or over- 
handing are to have needle point at exact depth and be exact distance between 
each stitch. 



CIk Cawson School of music and Other Tine Jim 



10507 Superior Avenue 



Cleveland, Ohio 



All branches of Music and Dramatic Art taught in a thorough, 
progressive, practical and artistic manner. Voice Culture of both 
the singing and speaking voice a specialty. 



Beginners or 
Advanced Pupils 



Private or Class Lessons 
Day or Evening 



Best Instruction 
Moderate Prices 



Page 7 



Have 

You 

Tried 



T^T T TTVT/^O French - American 

lriLLlllVJO ICECREAM? 




Lesson 7.— OUTLINE STITCH.— Take even stitches, 
holding your work with the needle pointing toward you 
and always keeping the thread on the same side of the 
needle. Take each stitch back two threads on the preced- 
ing stitch and draw rather tightly, yet not enough to 
wrinkle the goods. 



Belding's New Process Embroidery Silk 

in eight different twists, and every conceivable shade, guaran- 
teed fast dve. 

If your dealer does not carry "Belding's," write us, and we will 
tell you where it can be obtained. 

BELDING BROS. & CO. 

528 Broadway New York City 



Lesson 8.— CHAIN STITCH.— Start at the top of your design and always 

have your needle point towards you. Draw 
needle through material, hold down thread under 
left thumb to form a loop, take a short stitch 

through the material, bringing needle through one stitch distance ahead and 

proceed as before. 

Lesson 9.— CABLE STITCH.— The cable stitch is made almost exactly 

as the chain stitch (see Lesson 8), except that 
the needle is drawn through at the side, half 
way back of the previous stitch, instead of at 
the center. 

Page 8 




Lesson 10. — COUCH STITCH. — 'Couching is made by laying straight lines 
of thread at equal distances apart across the design. 
Hold the threads in place with your left hand and fasten 
them to the material with small stitches on the right 
side, having the stitches in each row fall between those 
of the opposite row. 



The "New" Pictorial Review 
Embroidery Catalog 

is filled with ideas and suggestions of interest to any woman who em- 
broiders or does fancy work. It is profusely illustrated and contains 
designs for all the various kinds of embroideries, such as 

Eyelet, Seed, Satin, Solid and Outline 

Including numerous designs for the popular Braid Work and the New 
Punched Embroidery. Fully explained and illustrated in The New 
Pictorial Review Embroidery Catalog. 

Send 20 cents for a sample of this work begun on linen, and one of the 
special large needles. Add 15 cents for The New Pictorial Review 
Embroidery Catalog. 

COSTUMES, SUITS, SHIRT WAISTS, SKIRT 
PANELS, BELTS, HAND BAGS, DOILIES, Etc. 

Are all illustrated, not forgetting the many exquisite designs for Under- 
wear, and Infants' and Children's Wear. These may be obtained in 
either the 

Transfer or Perforated Patterns 

Purchase a copy today at any newsdealer, or The May Co. 
Price 10 cents; by mail, 15 cents 

THE PICTORIAL REVIEW COMPANY 

THE PICTORIAL REVIEW BUILDING 

222 West 39th Street, New York, N. Y. 

Page 9 



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Lesson 11.— CATCH STITCH.— Baste edges neatly together. Hold loosely 

in left hand, and work from left to right. 
Knot thread and draw needle through 
from under hem having needle come out 
the exact depth stitch is desired. Point 
needle to left and take one small stitch 
through cloth and above hem, Repeat, 
drawing thread downwards, taking small 
stitch through hem on exact line of de- 
sired depth. 

Lesson 12.— FAGOT STITCH.— Fagotting is used to combine ribbon 

folds, bands or braid. All work must 
first be basted over stiff paper or thin oil 
cloth. Bring thread up through edge of 
fold and cross from left to right and re- 
cross from side to side between the folds 
taking a short stitch through the edge 
of the folds and passing the needle each 
time under the thread before taking the stitch. 

Lesson 13.— FRENCH KNOT.— Bring thread up through the material. 
Take small back stitch, drawing needle 
half through cloth. Wind thread two or 
three times around needle and hold the 
knot down with the left thumb and pull 
needle through — then stick the needle 
through in exactly the same place it was drawn through at first and fasten 
underneath with short back stitch and bring thread through for the next knot. 






.8 

ji 




CHEMICAL 

FLOOR MOP 

SAVES TIME. «B0R. FLOOBS. M* "ONIT 

r-.r2S32r 

floors on "»""»* „, M , 



Your Furniture, Floors and Woodwork can be 
Kept Dusted and Polished without Labor 

By Using 

DUST- BRIGHT 

Chemical 

Floor Mops and Dusting Cloths 

They "Dust Like Magic" and leave a fine polish, 
all with one operation. Cost no more and give 
better results than inferior substitutes. 

Ask your dealer for " DUST-BRIGHT." If he does 
not have it advise us and we will see that you are 
supplied at regular prices. 



The AmericanTextile Mfg. Co. 



1968 West 52nd Street 



CLEVELAND, OHIO 




Page 10 



Art Work 

We teach or paint to order, pictures in oil, 
water-color, pastel or crayon, also teach and 
do stencil work, china decorating and firing. 
Paints for china 10c and 15c each. 

Carlton Studio 

1430 Schofield Bldg., Cleveland, O. 



THE ELLEN C. LONG 

Book ana Art exchange 

31 Taylor Arcade 

Monogram Work. High Grade Stationery. 
Dainty Cards. Birthday, Wedding, 
Anniversary, Congratulations for Birth 
Announcements and other special occasions. 

FRAMING A SPECIALTY. 



Lesson 14.— SEED STITCH.— The seed stitch is made by taking small 
back stitches covering the leaf or petals of a design or 
monogram. The rows must be evenly spaced and the 
stitches in each row falling midway between those of 
the rows at either side of them. 




Lesson 15.— DAMASK STITCH.— Fasten thread on wrong side and bring 
needle up through to right side, carrying the thread 
across the pattern to be worked. When the desired 
number of threads have been laid draw through in the 
opposite direction at even distances apart another set of 
threads. At the place where the threads cross catch 
down with the cross stitch. (See Lesson 11.) 




Lesson 16.— HEMSTITCHING.— Draw the required number of threads 
and turn hem and baste exactly below last thread drawn. Hold the hem 
toward you, insert the needle under and through the hem, group from three 
to as many threads as are desired (always the same number), and draw the 
needle through to the right of the group and take a short stitch in the fold 
of the hem. (See cut No. 1, page 6, for exact position of needle). 



Protect -Yourself - and - the - Breadwinner 

Then when the unforseen, unexpected piece of bad luck comes, your cash income 
does not stop just when you most need it. Be positively and safely provided for 
by the largest Health and Accident Insurance Company in the world. Come in 
today and let us explain or call up CENTRAL 2357 -W, and ask us to tell you 

WHAT FIVE CENTS PER DAY WILL DO FOR YOU. 

We insure both Men and Women. 

W.E.Watt,Mgr. CONTINENTAL CASUALTY CO. 358 The Arcade 
ACT TODAY — SICKNESS OR AN ACCIDENT MAY COME TOMORROW 



Page 11 




Lesson 17.— CROSS STITCH.— The cross stitch 
is simply bringing one stitch across the angle of the 
other. 




GOITRE 

will disappear when 
treated with 

MORLENE 



Also 

Thick Neck, Tumors, 

Double Chin, Enlarged 

Joints, Inflammations 

The above statement has been so thoroughly 
proven that we are almost tempted to say Morlene 
will cure any case of Goitre. However, to avoid 
possible misrepresentation we will say that in every 
case Morlene relieves the dangerous and disagree- 
able conditions accompanying Goitre and gives entire satisfaction to 92% of all cases, no matter 
how bad or how long standing. 

Goitre is unsightly and disagreeable, to say the least, and it often produces dangerous condi- 
tions by affecting the eyes, the breathing or the blood flow to and from the brain, so it is always 
best to get rid of any enlargements about the throat whether they be Goitre, Thick Neck or 
Tumors and for the sake of a better appearance the Double Chin. 

Morlene is not an experiment, its effectiveness has been thoroughly proven, therefore 
we want every person afflicted with Goitre and similar troubles to know that there is a remedy 
which is really a success in 92% of all cases. 

If you are not afflicted but have relatives or friends who are, 
tell them of Morlene. They should know about it. 

Your druggist can supply you if he wants your trade. If he fails send us SI. 50 and we will promptly 
deliver a full size package containing a sufficient quantity for an ordinary treatment of 30 days. 

MANUFACTURED ONLY BY 

The Interstate Drug Company 

Cleveland, Ohio 



Page 12 



THREAD CAST-OFF 



THE White Rotary is the only 
machine equipped with a Thread 
Cast-off. Talk about trouble — why, 
manufacturers of Rotary machines have 
had a world of trouble with the thread 
tangling in the shuttle race, and you can 
imagine the annoyance it has caused the 
operator, to say nothing of the loss of 
time in trying to get the machine to work 
right. Happily the White experts came 
to the rescue with this remarkable device 
— the Thread Cast-off (it's exclusively 
White) and the difficulty vanished as if 
by magic. It's just another instance of 
White superiority. There's no time like 
the present to look the White over. 



White Sewing Machine Co. 

426 PROSPECT Both Phones 



SANITATION 



HEALTH 



HAPPINESS 



Our method of fumigation and insect extermination 
is absolutely the most up-to-date and efficient 
method in use. It is the ONLY method endorsed 
by the Government experts of all nations, and 
recommended by the State Medical authorities 
as being the only absolute remedy known to Science. 

No powder dust left — No poison— No bad odors. 

Penetrates through plastering, upholstered fur- 
niture, bedding, etc. 

We rid Boats, Warehouses, Hotels, Churches and 
Stores of all germs, insects, rats, mice, etc. 

DON'T NEGLECT YOUR HOME 

It should be fumigated by our method once a year 
— then it will be clean and healthful. 

Our experts are at your service. 

Our methods are used exclusively on the C. & B. 
Boats. Let us hear from you. 

Victor Insect Exterminating Co. 

351 The Arcade CLEVELAND, O. 



Lesson 18.— FEATHER STITCH— BRIAR STITCH.— Mark with pencil or 
tailor's chalk or run a colored thread along the line to be followed. Knot 
thread, bring needle through to right side, hold thread down with left thumb, 
take a short stitch through and to the right side of the mark or line, bring 





thread down directly on the mark or line and hold with thumb and take short 
stitch downward to left of the mark or line and repeat taking stitch, first on 
the right then on the left. (See cut). The double feather or briar stitch is 
made by taking two stitches to the right and two stitches to the left, instead 
of one while the triple feather stitch is made by taking three stitches to the 
right and three to the left. 




Lesson 19.— LONG AND SHORT STITCH — 

Follow exact instructions as slant stitch (see Lesson 
5), except that one stitch is taken, one-half the dis- 
tance in depth as the succeeding one. 



rs^J 



Lesson 20.— SOLID EMBROIDERY.— Is made by using the long and 
short stitch in successive rows until the design is entirely filled in. 



Page 13 



Lesson 21.— SATIN STITCH.— (French Embroidery)— The satin stitch is 
the stitch taken straight across from one edge to the other of the design or 
taken on a slant from one edge to the opposite edge. You will use the Satin 
Stitch in making the Chevrons, page IS, or Initials, and in many other designs 
so much in vogue at the present time. 

Lesson22.— EMBROIDERY SCALLOP STITCH.— Fasten thread by run- 
ning and back stitches. Hold thread under left thumb forming loop. Take 

stitch through material depth desired 
with needle pointing downward. Draw 
needle through loop and repeat taking 
every stitch very closely together so 
no gap appears between the stitches. 
Often the depths of the scallops or embroidered edge vary according to the 
pattern or design to be worked and the outline must be very carefully fol- 
lowed. The cut shown in Lesson 25, shows the exact position of the needle. 




LEARN AX OUR EXPENSE 

How easily the most inexperienced sewer can create perfectly stunning effects in embroidery 
with the new Reis Gumbac Foundations Scallops. They are very simple. If you can thread a 
needle you can successfully use them. Just moisten the back and stick on, and work over with 
silk or cotton. That's all. 



REIS' FOUNDATION 



Letters and 
Scallops 



help to make your wearing apparel and household linen distinctively rich. They add that much 
desired tone of expressive charm— an indication of character— the "intangible something" of which 
a woman can well be proud. 

Reis' Letters and Scallops make embroidering simply delightful 

with the Stamping, Underlaying and Basting difficulties eliminated. 

Reis Gumbac Foundations are not made of ordinary paper or even papier mache. The material in their 

composition is of European origin. Remarkable as it may seem, we guarantee that they will retain their shape 

and appearance through all the washings, boilings and ironings that the article on which they are embroidered 

will withstand. Nor will they discolor or harm the finest fabric. Our standing offer is as follows: 

"We Will Pay for Any Garment Injured by Reis 

Gumbac Foundations Through Washing or Ironing." 

Re!s Gumbac Scallops come in six styles— 26 patterns, and retail at a uniform price of 10c per card of 1J 4 yards 

to the small sizes and S of a yard to the large. 



REIS FOUNDATION LETTERS 

Are made in three styles: 
Script Block Old English 






Harmonizing colors of embroidery silk will add to 
their attractiveness, especially when working mono- 
gramrr.ed des'gns — easily accomplished by interlacing 
the letters. 

Send us your name, a 2-cent stamp and the 
name of a dealer in your city who would most 
likely handle our goods. We will send you in re- 
turn our new booklets, sample strips of scallops 
and samples of the Reis Letters in your initial. 



In Sizes from % inch to 10 Inches. 

Sold at the Art Counter of Any Department Store 

Reis Initials, 620 Broadway, New York 



Page 14 



THE OLD WAY TO EMBROIDER SCALLOPS. 

There is an old, tedious and laborious manner of embroidering scallops 
and there is a new, pleasant and easy way. The old method is to buy a 
transfer pattern or hire the stamping done. Then a running stitch must be 
very carefully taken at the exact line desired to indicate the depth. Then you 
must pad your scallops with the chain stitch using a good filling cotton. When 
your foundation is completed then embroider according to embroidery scallop 
stitch. Lesson 22. 

D OMESTIC VACUUM C LEANER 

Dirt and Dust are a Constant 
Menace to Your Home 

A large percent of our contagious dis- 
eases are carried into the home by reason 
of germ laden dust. 

The DOMESTIC is the only Vacuum 
Cleaner with Full Ball-Bearings and a Bali- 
Bearing Adjustable Roller under the suction 
plate for light or heavy cleaning. 

The DOMESTIC is cabinet built and will 
last a lifetime. 

The DOMESTIC is the only hand cleaner 
with attachments for cleaning Mattresses, 
Upholstery, etc. With these attachments 
you have a cleaner with every advan- 
tage of an electric machine at a 
little greater cost than the best 
Bissell Carpet Sweeper. 

The DOMESTIC Hand Cleaner 
is as powerful as the best portable electric. 

For free demonstration phone Main 2463, or Central 8258 K, 

or come to our office. 

THE B. E. & C. H. STROUD CO. 




510 The Arcade 



Cleveland, Ohio 



Page 15 



AUTOMOBILE PAINTING, TRIMMING, REMODELING AND REPAIRING. 
1911 Cars Remodeled with Fore Doors and Repainted to Resemble 1912 Models 



Telephone--East S40 



Smith Carriage $ Auto Co. 



F. L. Smith, Proprietor 



1970 EAST 66TH STREET, NEAR CORNER OF EUCLID AVENUE 



THE NEW WAY TO EMBROIDER SCALLOPS. 

To save time and energy and to insure satisfactory results with your work, 
procure the necessary length of Reis Foundation Gumbac Scallops, which can 
be embroidered over without any of the preliminary work explained. 

All you need to do is to moisten the scallop, press down with your hand 
and work over with the stitch taught you in Lesson 22. This eliminates all the 
drudgery of stamping your design and all the filling-in work and gives a much 
more desirable effect than you can possibly obtain by the ordinary methods. 

Lesson 23.— BLANKET STITCH.— Begin by fastening thread by using 
running and back stitch. Hold thread under left thumb forming loop — take stitch 
depth desired with needle pointing downward, drawing needle through loop, 
and repeat, taking care to always have the stitches exactly the same distance 
apart and exactly the same height. The blanket stitch is the same as the 
buttonhole stitch only each stitch is made instead of very close together as 
the buttonhole stitch is done, a small distance apart. 

Lesson 24.— BUTTONHOLE STITCH.— The Buttonhole stitch and the 
Embroidery Scollop stitch are done exactly the same (see Lesson 22), except 
that in embroidery the point of the needle is toward the edge while in but- 
tonholeing the point of the needle is toward the cloth. See cut of Lesson 25, 
for exact position of needle. 

Lesson 25.— EYELETS AND EYELET EMBROIDERY.— Eyelets may 

be round, oval, oblong or pointed. Run a cotton thread around the outlines 

with very small running stitches to hold the form, 
then punch with a stiletto. Set the needle for 
each stitch just outside the cotton outline stitch 
and draw the point through the stilettoed open- 
ing or set the needle through the opening, bring- 
ing the point just outside the outline stitch. Either manner is correct. Make 
the stitches very even and rather tight and then shape perfectly with ,the 
stiletto. 

By courtesy of Pictorial Review Co. 

Lesson 26.— PUNCHED WORK.— Thread the long special 
needle used for the work, and knot it at the eye. Then 
fastening your thread on the under side of the material, begin 
work in the upper left-hand corner of the design. Bring up the 
needle in the first dot of the first row, send it down in the first 
dot of the second row, bring it up again in the first dot of the 
first row and draw the thread slightly to pull the goods together. 
Then send the needle down in the first dot of the second row 
and bring it up in the second dot of the first row, Pass down 





Page 16 



through the second dot of the second row, bring up through the second dot 
of the first row, draw the thread a bit; pass down through the second dot of 
the second row and bring up again in the third dot of the first row. When 
you have done all of the work in one direction, turn the naterial and repeat the 
stitch at right angles to the first set of stitches, so that the effect will be one 
of little squares. 

Lesson 27.— BRAIDING. 

Braiding is most suitable and effective for a border or a trimming for 
waists, gowns, suits, evening wraps or children's dresses and can be used on 
any material. It can be developed with plain braid, soutache, cord, bias tub- 
ing or fine embroidery or the design can be followed with the outline or chain 
stitch. On heavy goods such as velvet, serge or linen a braid or cord the 
color of the material should be used. To secure the most attractive effect the 
braid should be sewed on the edge so that it will stand up on the material. 
The stitch used to sew on the braid is a short stitch on the right side of the 
braid or cord and a long stitch on the back. For materials of net, chiffon 
or marquisette a dull silver or fine gold or soft silk cord put on with button 
hole couching makes a most beautiful border or trimming. The stamping of 
these patterns for braiding must be most carefully done and the design fol- 
lowed exceedingly accurately in order to produce a satisfactory effect. There 
is an infinite variety of beautiful designs and patterns now in vogue for 
braiding, so the plainest or the most fastidious tastes can be satisfied. Those 
not having the time or the inclination to do this work for themselves can 
make up their garment and then have experienced braiders neatly and care- 
fully carry out your ideas in any simple or elaborate design which you may 
select. 



Braiding 



Ladies', Misses' and Children's Dresses, Suits, Coats and Blouses 
Braided in the latest, most artistic and approved designs. 
We also make buttons of your own material in all styles. 

Bring your work to us or call us up by either 
phone and we will tell you what we can do for you. 

Joseph Korach & Company 

(Braiding and Embroidering) 
1258 W. FOURTH STREET, CLEVELAND, OHIO 

^— ^— — — — ^ m^m j i jj i ._l-Mi II. 1^- H I ■■ L^,li l ■— ^— i 

Page 17 




Use Reis Foundation Let- 
ters for your monograms or 
initials. We have plain and 
fancy letters suitable for 
every need of embroidery 
such as lingerie, household 
linen, handkerchiefs, work 
bags, table covers, etc. Made 
in three styles-— Old English— Script— 
Block— sizes ^g inch to 10 inches. 

Sold at the needlework department of every de- 
partment and dry goods store or send for our il- 
lustrated bcok on embroidering and samples in 
your initials. 




REIS 




630 BROADWAY 



•«amo r 



ASHABLE LETTERS 

NEW YORK 



M«»OOIf)EBV 



The Morehouse Co. 

will supply you with 

Reis Foundation Letters 

for any desired purpose 
Ask Q t the needlework department 





Lesson 28.— MONOGRAMS, CHEVRONS AND EMBLEMS, Etc. 

Chevrons and emblems are very ap- 
propriate for sailor suits, boys' suits, and 
a number of purposes which present them- 
selves and children always delight in an 
emblem or chevron on their arm, while 
grown ups always appreciate their mono- 
gram neatly worked on their garments. 

You can either get the Reis emblems, 
chevrons and monogram foundations and 
work over them with the satin stitch (see 
Lesson 21), or you can stamp them on 
crinoline or stiff paper and baste them 
on the goods and embroider, cutting the 
paper or crinoline away as soon as fin- 
ished. Or you may embroider the chev- 
rons and monograms on a separate piece 
of broadcloth or linen, and sew on. See 
lessons on embroidery for the monogram work. 




Page 18 



f 



This Beautiful Pillow FREE 

All we ask is that you buy 6 skeins of 

Richardson's Grand Prize 
Wash Embroidery Silk 




We will give 
you this en- 
tire Pillow 
Outfit in- 
cluding 

1 Pillow Top — 

— either oblong or square — tinted 
on Aberdeen Crash. 

1 Back for Pillow 
1 Diagram Lesson 

— showing arrangement of stitches 
and color scheme, and 

Six Skeins of 

Richardson's 

Mercerized Cotton Floss 



for 

on 



i y 25 cents 



TOUR CHOICE OF TWELVE DESIGNS 



and a fully illus- or 
trated lesson for ZDC 

The Pillow Top and Back 
are absolutely FREE. 

This extraordinary offer 
is made to convince every 
woman of the superiority 

Richardson's 

Grand Prize 

Wash Embroidery Silk 



Why not beautify your 
home with attractive and 
effective pillows when the 
opportunity is offered? 

Every woman wants these 
attractive pillows and also 
knows the true value of 

Richardson's 
Grand Prize 
Grecian Floss 

On sale at 

BERNER'S ART STORE 

Arcade Building 
Cleveland :: Ohio 



Page 19 




I'M THE MAN 

That'll Always Give You 

A SQUARE DEAL 



Clothes of Quality 

for Men, Women, Boys 
and Children 

ON CREDIT 

HERE you'll find the NEW, the DIFFERENT, 
the BETTER SORT of Clothing. Clothes of 
Quality, Distinction and Style, at prices abso- 
lutely as low as at any cash store. 

TERMS— $1.00 Down, Pay as you can spare it. 



CWALLEY'S 

^"^ CREDIT STORE 

424 Euclid Ave. Cleveland, Ohio 



Lesson 29.— TO MAKE BUTTONHOLES.— Unless you have tested your 
skill in making buttonholes it will be wise for you to practice until you are in 
a fair way to feel confidence in your ability, otherwise you may ruin your 
garment. First mark the exact length of buttonhole you desire, in the exact 
place you desire it, then run a thread around the space you intend to cut, 
then cut straight the slit to be worked, over cast the edges then work with 
the button hole stitch (as per Lesson 24). 

The Purest Water 
Sold in Cleveland 

( Bacterial Tests Abundantly Prove 
the Truth of this Statement ) 

THE PROCESS OF PURIFICATION 

necessary for the production of Katharos is the most advanced known to science. 

THE BOTTLES ARE STERILIZED and rinsed with Katharos before being filled. 

NOTHING BENEFICIAL IS REMOVED by the process of purification. None 
of the tonic values are lost. 

KATHAROS HAS LIFE AND SPARKLE, due to the liberation of gas during 
the electrolytic action. 

KATHAROS IS AS PURE AS DISTILLED WATER, but is much more palata- 
ble and tonic in its qualities. It contains enough of the minerals and salts to 
make it the most healthful of drinking waters. 

KATHAROS IS ALWAYS PURE— in which respect it is very unlike spring 
water, which is best described as being pure until it is declared impure. The 
volume of sickness traceable to CONTAMINATED SPRINGS is of vast pro- 
portions. Springs situated in proximity to thickly populated districts are pecul- 
iarly liable to sudden contamination. 

N ^ r h t ° n 3 e 4 s 6 : The Electra Pure Water Co. 

Cent. 3241-W 2035 East 18th Street Cleveland, Ohio 




Page 20 



Lesson 30.— SEWING ON BUTTONS.— Have button hole completed first, 
then measure exact place button is needed, and mark either with a pin or with 
tailor's chalk. Place button directly over mark or pin and bring up thread 
through holes of the buttons, leaving the thread moderately loose. When the 
button is securely sewed on wind the thread a few times around under the 
button and fasten well on the under side of the garment. 

Lesson 31. — LOOPS. — Fasten the thread well on the under side by several 
over and over stitches, draw through cloth and bring thread loosely down to 
exact length desired, repeat three or four times or until you have thickness 
consistent with the weight of goods you are working on. Then begin at the 
bottom of the threads and insert the needle under the loops and over the 
thread, allowing the eye of the needle to pass under first, continue till loop is 
covered, then fasten well on under side. 

Lesson 32. — DARNING. — The darning thread to be used depends entirely 

on the material to be darned, as it should 
match in color and quality, and in many in- 
stances a thread or ravelling drawn from the 
goods itself is preferable. Always begin a 
little beyond the worn places so your stitches 
will hold. Fasten your thread with the over 
and over stitch, and run your thread exactly 
along the lengthwise thread of the garment, 
then begin on the cross wise threads and run 
over and under the lengthwise threads altering 
the over and under stitch. In mending 
stockings a darning ball may be used, but in 
mending most materials, they should be 
basted on a flat surface, such as stiff paper 
or thin oil-cloth. 




HAVE YOU EVER INSPECTED 
OUR LARGE FURNITURE STORE? 

It Will Pay You to Do So 

Come in and examine our Furniture and 
Floor Coverings. 

Get acquainted with our stock and see the 
new things with which our store is filled. 

Let us show you what beautiful pieces 
can be had for little money. 

The Henke Furniture Co. 

3001-3021 Lorain Ave., cor. W. 30th 




Page 21 







»%&&%■■■ 



WTPrfiiTi?lIli-- 






Lesson 33. — Stoting. — Stoting is used on 
heavy goods, and on a rent or cut in a material 
which needs to be mended without darning or 
patching. A thread from the cloth is used and 
the stitch is begun back from the rent and the 
running stitch back and forth in a slanting line 
is taken until the tear has been closed. 



Lesson 34. — PATCHING. — If possible have your patch of the same ma- 
terial, and cut it so the weave comes exact with the place to be mended. 
Baste patch on wrong side of goods. On the right side cut out the worn or 
frayed part and make a small slit in each of the corners and turn down evenly 
the edges and sew down neatly on both sides of the garment. 

There are many materials such as rain-proof clothing or silk garments, or 
kid gloves, etc., that can be mended much better with the Havanco Mending 
Tissue than with needle and thread, and patches can be put on and repairs 
made on a moment's notice by adhering to the following directions: 

Brush all dust from garments, place piece of goods like garment under hole, 
leaving it a little larger than the hole. Cut piece of the Havanco tissue the 
size of the piece of goods and place it between the garment and the patch; 
lay a paper on cloth over all and press with a warm flatiron. Same directions 
for stockings, silk goods or other goods where part is worn thin and a patch 
required. 

Remember do not have the iron HOT. 

Re-seating or repairing knees of boys' pants, follow directions above for 
patches. 

Garments repaired with Havanco may be washed and ironed but not boiled. 
Heat is the only thing that will affect it. 



HAVANCO MENDING TISSUE 

The best thing for repairing bottoms of skirts and pants, also mending all kinds 

of rents in clothing, and useful for making many other kinds of repairs quickly 

and effectively. 

One piece each of White, Black and Brown 

to the package for . . Ten Cents 

For sale by druggists, dry goods and notion stores, or will send post paid upon the receipt 

of the price in stamps. 

THE HALL-VAN GORDER COMPANY 

1382 West Ninth Street CLEVELAND, OHIO 



Page 22 



Lesson 35.— OVERHAND PATCH.— Where the goods are heavy and not 
often washed, the overhand patch may be used. It is put on the same as the 
ordinary patch (see Lesson 34), except that the patch is overhanded on the 
right side and the underside neatly cut down to a good seam and pressed. 



Ackerman's Patent Ideal Faucet 
Syringe and Bath Spray 



■j-i !<v ,-..■■ y\ 
i '.;..•> ■;■■ : 



The most wonderful improvement ever made in a syringe. Can be used for 
everything a fountain syringe is used for. It is entirely unlike the old style, 
clumsy fountain syringe, so long found inefficient and unsatisfactory. It is 
the most simple, convenient, sanitary, economical, perfect and effective 
syringe ever made; no cumbersome water bags to get out of order; always 
ready, will last a life time. You can get any desired pressure or flow of water, 
as there is no limit as to the supply of water. The operator can use a pint or 
a gallon without stopping and at any force desired, which is controlled by a 
valve, while the ordinary fountain syringe has not enough force to it to dis- 
lodge germs, whereas with the Ideal Faucet Syringe you can obtain any 
desired force. A lady, in washing off dirt from the porch, will use the lawn 
hose with such force as to drive everything before it. With this Ideal 

Faucet Syringe you can 
get the same results, if 
necessary, and the force 
of the stream can be 
regulated to suit the 
purpose for which it is 
used — from a drop of 
water at a time to a 
pressure of 50 pounds. 

The Ideal Patent 
Cup Attachment, 

which has a sponge in it, 
and when it is desired to 
use an antiseptic or san- 
ative treatment in con- 
nection with a douche, 
all that is required is to 
drop your medicine onto 
this Sponge in the cup, 
screw on cap and attach 
to end of rubber tube 
before putting on the 
spray and then screw on 
the vaginal pipe and the 
whole stream of water is 
medicated with the 
medicine. 



IDEAL FAUCET SYRINGE COMPANY 

9601 Cedar Avenue, Cleveland, Ohio 




Page 23 



Lesson 36.— BANDS AND FOLDS.— A true bias is obtained by folding 
the material with the straight edge of the top on the selvedge or straight 
lengthwise fold exactly, and cutting diagonally. Folds and bands are used 
considerably on tailored suits, as they make a very neat trimming, and are 
easily made. Cut your bias strips the desired width and join the diagonal 
ends, and then turn under the edges of the fold and stitch with one or two 
rows of stitching. When the fold is lined, the canvas is basted in and the 
edges of the fold fastened down with the catch stitch. 

Lesson 37. — DOUBLE FOLD. — Take your bias band twice the desired 
width and fold so the edges come exactly together. Baste and sew on either 
by machine or by hand. 

Lesson 38.— MILLINER'S FOLD.— Cut your bias bands two and one-half 
times the width desired. Fold over the top edge, make a narrow turn up of 
the bottom edge and bring it up to cover the edge turned down. 

Lesson 39. — PIPING. — Piping is made of bias strips folded in the center, 
and basted at an exactly even depth under the fold, allowing only the edge of 
the bias strip to emerge. The piping may be lined or unlined. 

N.B. — Ask your dealer for the W. & N. piping, which is beautifully made 
and ready for use. 

Lesson 40. — CORDING.— Cut the bias strips twice as wide as desired. 
Hold the cord so it cannot become twisted and place in the exact center of 
the fold, turn down the fold and sew neatly just below the cord. 

Lesson 41. — SEAMS. — Seams can be joined by machine stitching, chain 
stitch, running stitch, or back stitch or the edge when of material that does 
not fray can be left raw or pinked, or they may be protected in various 
manners, such as binding or overhanding the raw edges, or by making the 
felled or French seams. On heavy goods that do not ravel or fray out to 
press back the edge of the seam, and stitch on either side gives a very good 
finish, and is an easy manner of disposing of the tailored seams, but the 
stitching must be very straight and very even. Great care must be taken 
that the stitches are not too fine on tailored seams, and silk thread should 
always be used to join the seams of a garment made of wool goods. 

Lesson 42. — FELLED SEAM. — Sew up the seam in any of the ordinary 
ways described in the preceding lesson. Trim the under edge narrower than 
the outer. With a narrow turning fold the broad edge over the narrow edge 
of the seam and hem either by hand or on machine. 



Cent. 4679 K 



Tables fnr Ladies 



Griffiths Restaurant 

1022-1028 Prospect Avenue 
CLEVELAND, 0. 

Try Our Home-like Baking 
QUALITY HAS BEEN OUR SUCCESS 



DRINK 



SENORA 

Always the Same 
Good 

COFFEE 




Page 24 



BELLE VERNON MILK 



the Best Milk 



Lesson 43.— THE BOUND SEAM.— The proper material for binding the 
edges of seams is bias bands of silk, linen or cotton, or W. & N. binding. The 
edges of the goods to be bound should be evenly trimmed and the binding 
basted on the edges. The W. & N. binding turns itself so all you need to do 
is to fasten the binding on by hand or sew it down with machine. 

Lesson 44. — STRAP SEAM. — Cut either bias or crosswise strips and turn 
under both edges and stitch over a plain seam. 

Lesson 45. — WELT SEAM. — -Make a plain seam leaving one edge wide 
and one edge narrow. Turn back the wide fold and baste down the narrow 
edge and stitch with one or two rows of stitching. 

Lesson 46. — LAPPED SEAM. — A lap seam is as its name implies one 
seam lapping over another. Stitch near the edge of the upper lap and again 
one-half inch back. This is one of the simplest manners in which to dispose 
of a tailored seam. 

Lesson 47.— THE FRENCH SEAM.— Sew the seam by machine, or 
running stitch on the right side of the garment. Trim evenly and narrowly, 
turn garment and sew on wrong side taking seam of depth to entirely inclose 
the first seam. 

Lesson 48. — HEMMING. — Hems are made by turning the edge of the ma- 
terial twice in any suitable depth and the fold fastened down with the slant 
stitch or by hemstitching or in some instances the plain running stitch, while 
in others a hem is joined to a lace or embroidery insertion by what is called 
a roll hem. For the ordinary hem begin by making a narrow turning, yet 
deep enough so the turning includes all the edges. Then cut a strip of heavy 
paper or notch a piece of card board the exact depth you desire your hem 
and use this paper or card board for a marker, for your hem must be turned 
exactly even. Baste down then hem with slant stitch (see Lesson S), or 
hemstitch (see Lesson 17). Much time is saved however, when hemming can 
be done on the machine as it saves the measuring and basting. 

Lesson 49.— TO HEM CORNERS.— To hem square corners, turn under 
exactly as for an ordinary hem, and cut out the underlying corners, leaving 
just room enough to catch the stitches nicely. Catch the overlap of the 
corners of the hem to the underlap, being careful the stitches do not show 
through on the right side, and overhand the end, or after turning the edges 
for the hem fold toward the center, and cut the material in the fold and hem 
the bias edges. 

Lesson 50. — DAMASK HEM. — Table linen can be very neatly hemmed by 
using the damask hem. It is very simple. Turn as for an ordinary hem. 
Fold back the linen at the crease of the first fold of the hem and overcast 
with very fine stitches. When finished take a moderately hot iron and press 
down the hem on the right side. 

Lesson 51. — ROLLED HEM. — Is used for setting in insertion. Hold 
wrong side of goods toward you and turn neatly and begin at the right and 
sew insertion and material together with the slant stitch. (See Lesson 5.) 



Page 25 



Lesson 52. — GATHERING.— Divide your goods into two or four even 
spaces, make a rather heavy knot and use the simple running stitch, then 
draw goods on gathering string into exact position desired. 

Lesson 53. — FACINGS. — Use a bias band, tape, embroidery, or on a 
straight seam, a piece of goods cut either across or down the weave of the 
goods will do. Place the right side of the facing against the right side of the 
goods and sew firmly with machine or by running stitch. Turn and sew down 
either with machine or with slant stitch. Embroidery or lace may be used 
for facing on some articles by following the suggestion of cut — which is done 
in the same way as the ordinary facing. Facing of lace or embroidery around 
the neck or arm hole of sleeves is sometimes put on the right side making a 
trimming or finish. In this instance the edge of the embroidery or lace must 
be heavy enough to entirely cover the edge of the material of the garment, or 
the work will not look neat. In underwear the W. & N. bias tape is most 
useful in innumerable instances. 

Lesson 54. — TUCKS. — A first class sewing machine is provided with a 
tucker that can be gauged for any size tuck you desire, so it is not necessary 
to baste in your tucks after a little practice on your machine. But to make 
tucks by hand you must make a marker and fold exactly on the line and 
sew down carefully either by machine or with running stitch. Always draw 
the ends of the threads through to the underside of the garment and tie care- 
fully. Where lace or embroidery must be joined in tucks sew the cloth so the 
seam will come in the fold of and under the tuck. 

N. B. The White Sewing Machine is provided with a tucker with which 
you can easily both regulate your tucks and the space between the tucks. 



Pleats are made the same as tucks, 
only you must always baste down your 
pleats, lay a damp cloth over them and 
press so they will keep their fold nice- 
ly, but all accordion pleating, side pleat- 
ing and sunburst pleating must be done 
at a pleating establishment, unless you 
have a pleating machine of your own. 

Lesson 55.— SHIRRING.— Is simply 
from two to as many rows of gather- 
ing as desired. On most materials it 
can be done as successfully on the 
sewing machine as by hand and very 
much quicker. 

Lesson 56.— RUFFLES. — Ruffles 
may be made of straight or bias goods, 
of embroidery, lace, chiffon or any 
sheer materials. If the ruffle is to be 
made of goods without a finished edge 
the edge must be neatly hemmed 



PL E ATI N G 



Accordeon Pleating and Side 
Pleating made in the newest 
effects for Party Costumes, 
House Gowns, Dancing Frocks, 
Maternity Dresses, Dressing 
Sacques, Fancy Waists, Street 
Dresses, Children's Dresses, 
Etc. And many styles of Pleat - 
ings for Trimmings of Dresses, 
Waists, Hats, Muffs, Neck- 
wear, Etc. 



Art Pleating Shop 

438 Old Arcade 
Cleveland 



Page 26 



Moth 




71. fL-J^y^-* 

Stomach & Liver Pills 

ZOA-FHORA CO.. Props.. 

KALAMAZOO, MICH. 

PRICE, - 25 CENTS. 



ZOA-PHORA STOMACH AND LIVER PILLS 

The Scientific and Effectual Remedy for 
Biliousness, Headache, and all Disorders 
Arising from a Sluggish Liver and Im- 
perfect Digestion. 

When the food is not being properly digested and the 
Liver refuses to work and the whole system becomes clog- 
ged with poison and you need a good, quick, gentle 
cathartic 

RememberZOA-PHORA Stomach and Liver Pills 
have been used for over half a century with most 
gratifying results. 

For habitual Constipation and Bowel Trouble use the ZOA-PHORA 
Anti-Constipation Pills. For sale at all first-class druggists. 

See page 96 for partial list. 



(see Lesson 48), and if desired an edging may be sewed on either by machine 
or neatly overhanded (see Lesson 6). The ruffle is attached to the garment 
either by gathering (see Lesson 52), to the necessary fullness and by placing the 
right side of the material and ruffle together and sewing firmly, or the ruffle 
may be sewed on the right side and covered with a bias band, or with a piece 
of the W. & N. bias tape. Or again the ruffle may be inserted in the hem by plac- 
ing the right side of the garment and the ruffle together and turn hem back to 
the wrong side of the garment, make a second turning and hem. In very fine 
work a ruffle of lace or embroidery may be put on with the whip stitch (see 
Lesson 6), which is done exactly as overcasting. 

Lesson 57.— SEWING ON LACE OR EMBROIDERY.— If the lace or 
embroidery is to be put on by hand, put the right side of the lace to the right 
side of the material and overhand. If the machine is to be used put the edge 
of the wrong side of the lace or embroidery to the edge of the right side of 
the hem and stitch. 

N. B. — The White Sewing Machine has an attachment wherewith the 
hemming is done and the lace or embroidery sewed on with one operation. 

Lesson 58.— SETTING IN LACE OR EMBROIDERY.— Baste the lace or 
embroidery on the right side in the exact position desired. Cut out goods 
leaving enough only for a narrow hem. Carefully baste down hem over edge 
of insertion, and stitch on right side, taking pains to catch through the narrow 
hem on the underside. Or the lace or embroidery may be set in by using the 
roll hem. (See Lesson 48). 

Lesson 59.— SEWING ON HOOKS AND EYES. 

On page 32, you will find a cut of the Wilson Dress Hook and Eye, 
which we recommend for skirts, waists, dresses, undergarments, belts, chil- 
dren's garments or any purpose, where hooks and eyes, snap fasteners or 
buttons can be used. The Wilson Dress Hook and Eye is easy to hook and 
unhook, and cannot rust. They are flat and invisible and never slip open as 
so often happens with the ordinary hook and eye. To sew on, sew hook 
where an ordinary hook or buttonhole would be placed, turn hollow side 

Page 27 



toward the cloth and the straight edge toward edge of cloth, and sew the 
eye where an ordinary eye or button would have been placed. The stitch 
used is simply sewing over and over through the small round holes of the 
hook and eye, as are the ordinary hook and fastener. 

Lesson 60.— PUTTING IN STAYS AND COLLAR SUPPORTS. 

The Warren Feather Bone for stays or collar supports can be stitched by 
machine into the lining of the article to be boned, but a more attractive way 
is to use the catch stitch (see Lesson 11). However, in the most elaborate 
gowns, as well as in the simplest, many prefer to use the feather stitch (see 
Lesson 18), which gives the inside of the boned' article a very pretty finish, 
besides being a substantial stitch to hold the boning secure. 

Lesson 61.— MARKING OF LINEN UNDERWEAR. 

Every garment and piece of linen in your home should be marked. The 
gauze, fleeze lined and woolen underwear, the hosiery, aprons and children's 
clothes, in fact all laundered garments should be marked with the name or at 
least the initial of the member of the family to whom the article belongs. 

This is very quickly and easily done, by procuring the Reis woven names, 
or the Reis woven initials made on woven tape which can be neatly overcasted 
on the inside of the garment. 

Men's shirts should be marked with an embroidered initial just above 
cuff. Linen, lingerie and handkerchiefs beautifully monogrammed or with care- 
fully embroidered initials form the distinctive mark which lends dignity to the 
plainest articles. The Reis foundation washable letters or the Reis initial 
medallions should always be used, for they are perfect and durable and will 
stand the boiling and ironing of the laundry without being damaged in the 
least. You can get these letters or monograms in nearly any shade or style 
and all you need to do is to baste them on your fabrics and work over them 
with your embroidery cotton or silk. 



What 





Phora 

won't do for 

WOMANKIND 
no medicine 
will. 



MARK YOUR GARMENTS WITH 
REIS' WOVEN NAMES 



a 



Vonr garments should hear your name. It 
saves annoyance, prevents loss by laundries 
and hotels, ami will identify you in case of 
accident, REIS' NAMES come in si i jj, s 
ami are easily cut apart anil .sewn to an 
garment. They never wear out, 
REIS' WOVEN NAMES are machine 
woven <>n good quality white "a m hi ic 
tape in either red, navy, light hlue 
..i Mark and can he had in several 
different style letters. 

$2.00 for 144 Names 
$1.25 for 72 Names 

REIS' ENGRAVED NAMES 

Printed from Engraved Plate-, in 
Black on fine t'anilin.- Tape: 

100 Names for $1.25 
200 IV arr-.es for $1.75 

If your dry p><<ds store cannot 
take youi orders send youi order 
with remittance direct to us. 

G. REIS & BRO., 

Broadway and Bleecker St. 
NEW VCKK 



Sm 






®*s 



uji 



JL22Z 



o^v/rv; 



Pa ere 28 



The Hawley 

Cor. St. Clair Ave. and West Third St. 
(CLEVELAND 

^-* Sixth City 

Regular Dinner, 25 Cents 

Served from 11 a. m. to 2 p. m. 




R 



• 9 EMBROIDERED 
"IS SHIRT INITIALS 

AVERY pretty fad is to have the 
initial on the sleeve or pocket of 
shirts, pajamas, etc. Hand em- 
broidered initials are very beautiful, but 
it requires artistic ability and much 
work to make an attractive design. 
Reis' Initials elimate all this work. 
CJA11 you have to do is stick them on and 
work over with silk or cotton. 

Price, 10c. each or 3 for 25c. 

ii red, white, navy, green, lavender and black. 
G ReiS & BrOS. 630 Broadway, N. Y. 



Lesson 62.— EMBROIDERY DESIGNS. 

There is no trimming or ornamentation for waists, dresses or wash suits 
which meets the refined feminine approval more than embroidery designs. 
On nearly all smart garments from the marquisettes and sheer chiffon and 
silks and dainty lawns to the heavier materials and all wash goods you will 
find at least a suggestion ranging from the pretty French knots and the simple 
outline and chain stitch following the simplest of patterns to the most in- 
tricate, beautiful and elaborate creations. The designs and stitches used will 
depend entirely upon the taste of the individual and the style and texture of 
the garment, but all of the stitches ordinarily used will be found in this series 
of lessons together with full directions for stamping and making the garment. 
However should you prefer to have the embroidery done by more experienced 
fingers than your own or have not the time to devote on that part of the 
decoration of waist or gown you will do well to take it to your local em- 
broiderer where the work will be done by trained hands who make a specialty 
of embroidering. 

Embroidery 

Send or bring us that piece of Embroidery that you do 
not know how or have not the time to trouble to do. 

Our experienced embroiderers can work out in perfect 
effects any design you may choose for any purpose 
Either machine cr hand work. 

We also make buttons of your own material, in all styles. 

Joseph Korach & Company 

(Braiding and Embroidering) 

Both Phones 1258 W. 4th St., Cleveland, Ohio 



Page 29 



DON'T DO IX! 

DO WHAT ? Buy a Sewing Machine before you see the WHITE, and 
learn how much easier, better and quicker it will do your sewing. We shall 
be glad to show it up and let it speak for itself. 

Vibrator, Rotary Shuttle and "Sit-Strate" Machines. 
WHITE SEWING MACHINE CO. 

Botti Phones No. 426 Prospect Avenue 



CHAPTER XI. 
NECESSARY SEWING ACCESSORIES. 

Before beginning the making of a garment, see that you have the neces- 
sary accessories at hand with which to do your work. The articles usually 
required are: 

1 — Cutting Scissors 12 — Skirt Marker. 

2 — Button Hole Scissors 13 — Hooks and Eyes 

3— Yard Stick 14 — Patterns 

4 — Tape Line 15 — Linings, (See page 34.) 

5 — Needles 16 — Stiffenings 

6 — Thread, (Basting) 17 — Tape, (See page 36.) 

7 — Thread, (Cotton) 18 — Trimmings, (See page 41.) 

8 — Thread, (Silk, see page 31D). 19 — Dress Shields, (See page 37.) 

9 — Pins 20 — Boning, (See page 38.) 

10 — Tailor's Chalk 21 — Dress Forms, (See pages 39, 

11 — Tracing Wheel 40 and 41.) 

(A) SEIWNG MACHINE. 

A good sewing machine with ordinary care will last a lifetime so 
the greatest of caution should be used in selecting one. It is always a bad 
investment to buy an inferior, cheaply made machine when for the same money 
or a few dollars more a first class, reliable and reputable make can be pur- 
chased. A modern machine is supplied with attachments that will hem, gather, 
quilt, hemstitch and in fact do nearly everything that the human fingers can 
do in this line and a wise woman will keep her attachments always on hand 
and use them whenever possible for they will save her hours of useless labor. 

Your machine must be kept perfectly clean and well oiled and by keeping 
the tension adjusted just right you will not need to give it much further 
attention. 

(B) THREADS. 

One of the greatest mistakes made in sewing is the use of a needle that 
is too large and thread that is too coarse. On the other hand do not attempt 
to use a coarse thread in a fine needle or a fine thread in a large needle, but 
the thread should just pass easily through the eye of the needle. Be sure and 
provide yourself with a variety of sizes of cotton spool thread and a large 
spool of white basting thread and a spool of colored basting thread to use 
where it is not expedient to mark with a pencil or tailor's chalk, or where 
a line of tucks or trimming is desired. 

Page 30 




BOTH PHONES 



DON'T GUESS 

at the value to you as a Sewing Machine user of the 

White Tension Indicator but see it for yourself. It's 

exclusively White, and so available only for White 

buyers. With it you can do work that can't possibly be done 
on any other machine; and so if you are progressive and desire to 
do your sewing under the most advantageous conditions, then 
you'll need the WHITE. Be sure to drop in and see it at first 
opportunity. 

WHITE SEWING MACHINE CO. 

426 PROSPECT AVENUE 



(C) EMBROIDERY THREAD. 

The kind of embroidery material is all important. Embroidery silk will 
give that rich, lustrous and beautiful effect that cannot be obtained with any 
of the imitations or substitutes. 

Pure silk will wash and wear without fading, and while embroidery silk 
costs more than cotton or any of the other substitutes, the results to be 
obained will more than justify the difference in expense. 

(D) SEWING THREAD. 

One of the most important requisites in dressmaking is the thread used in 
sewing the seams. Great care may be used in selecting styles, cloth, trimmings, 
etc., and yet the results will be disappointing, if the thread is not of the 
proper texture. Silk thread is particularly adapted for seam making, on ac- 
count of its great strength, elasticity and fast color. 

It may not be generally known that silk is the strongest fiber known to 
mankind, and that a yard of pure silk thread will stretch from two to three 
inches, whereas a cotton or linen thread has no "give" or "stretch"; conse- 
quently, a seam sewed with silk is infinitely stronger, will give to a stress, and 
will always retain its original shape. 



BELDING'S SEWING SILK 

is made from the finest quality of raw silk, is strong, smooth 
and elastic, and made in every conceivable color and shade. 

If your dealer does not carry "Belding's," write us, and we will 
tell you where you can get it. 

BELDING BROS. & CO. 

528 Broadway NEW YORK 



(E) HOOKS AND EYES. 
There is no greater extravagence than to invest in a cheap worthless 
hook and eye, — they are always unsatisfactory and a garment not properly 



Page 31 



fastened is ruined. Many of the common brands of hooks and eyes will rust 
and leave its marks on your garment, while others will not go through the 
laundry without L-oi.ig to pieces. The best thing to do is to make sure that 




"Thank you. I'll run 
upstairs and fix it." 



This Embarrassment Can 

Never Come to You 

if You Use — 

the hooks that can't "pop" open 
accidentally or allow the dress 
to gape and spread. They are 
Wilson Dress-hooks. No matter 
how loose or tight your garment, 
the back is always smooth, neatly 
closed and perfectly flat if you 
use these un ique hooks . Though 
you can unhook them with per- 
fect ease. They are truly a reve- 
lation to women accustomed to 
troublesome hook-; and eyes, 
snap fasteners or buttons. 




on Dress- kooks 



FuBI-Size pppp Fill Out This 
Card Sent ■ H E» d Coupon 

provided you have not previously had a free card , 



V.'ilson Dress-hooks are guaranteed not to rust or crush in washing 
and i - omng. making them invaluable on wash garments. Always 
invisible — they never pull out beyond the edse and show. So flat ..♦* 
they do not leave the usual "bunch" which tells where other yf' 
hooks are sewn. Can not catch on trimmings. Outwear 
several garments. 



The Wilson 

Dress-hook Co. 

.♦** 198 St.ClairAve.,N.E. 

Cleveland, Ohio 

Tlense send, free, 10c 

card Wilson Dress-hooks. 

Black, White) 




previous sample 



Sold at notion counters everywhere (remember the orange and black card) 10c a 
oard of one dozen. Large and Small sizes; Gray, Black and White colors. 

Ask for Wilson Dress-hooks on all ready-to-wear 

garments , 



My 
Name 



Street 
Address J 



The Wilson Dress-hook Company 
198 St. Clair Ave., N. E., Cleveland, O. 



Town . 



.State. 



♦* 1 

y* My Deal- J. 

^♦* er's Name J 



His Address. 



Page 32 



you have a brand that will not rust and that will positively hold your garment 
in place. We recommend and use in our demonstrations the Wilson Dress 
Hook and Eye, which we find is always reliable and satisfactory and costs no 
more than any other good fastener. 




Specialists in Dressmakers'' Supplies 










'"THE BEST DRESSED WOMEN are most often those who 
take the keenest interest and pleasure in the small details 
and making of their clothes. 

These women realize the importance of the little things — 
not only the quality and style of fabrics, but the finish of lining, 
the kind of hook and eyes, the quality of thread, shields and 
dozen other seemingly trifling details. 

Each season finds here the newest of cloths, silks and dress 
fabrics and always in large and pleasing assortments. 

And, because we make a specialty of all the little things, 
the linings and findings, all the best of such are here. 

Every convenience is at hand, to the style book and pat- 
tern. We mention: 

Conovers' Naiad Dress Shields 

Warren 's Featherbone 

Wilson's Hooks and Eyes 

Reis Bros, £5? Co., Embroidery Foundations 

Coat Fronts, Coat Pads, Shoulder Forms and Bust Forms 

The Ladies' Home Journal Patterns 



Page 33 



Belding's Pure Dye Guaranteed Satin 

every yard guaranteed to give satisfactory wear. Look for the 
name on the selvage, and accept no substitute. 

BELDING BROS. & CO. 

528 Broadway NEW YORK CITY 



(F) LININGS. 

It is just as essential to have a satisfying effect in the lining of a coat or 
jacket, as it is in the exterior. Silk is naturally the most beautiful of all fabrics 
for lining purposes. It is very difficult, however, for the average person to 
select silk linings that will wear well, on account of the practice of adultera- 
tion or weighting. In order to overcome this difficulty, some of the most re- 
liable silk manufacturers are weaving their names in the selvage of the lining 
as a guarantee of wear. No fabric will wear as well as a pure dye silk fabric. 

By procuring Belding's Pure Dye Guaranteed Satin, you are assured of a 
reliable, satisfactory lining for your suit, cloak or garment. If your garment 
does not require a silk or satin lining, you should take into consideration the 



HEXTER'S LINING STORE 



Dress Makers' Supplies 
and Tailors' 1 Trimmings 

"Everything for your Dress but the Goods " 

153-155 Arcade : : Euclid Avenue Entrance 

Page 34 



FITTED WAIST LININGS 

This is considered one of the most important inventions of the present time, as it eliminates 
the endless preliminary fittings, which dressmakers at home, or professional have to suffer 
before they attain the result which you obtain in a ready made Grean Fitted Waist 
Lining. To all those who have not tried them it seems impossible, but you may rest assur- 
ed that the new, but simple principle which is embodied in the Grean Waist Linings, over- 
comes all obstacles. They are all finished, boned, have hooks and eyes in the back or front, 
according to sty!e, but above the boned portions and on the shoulders, the seams are very 
loosely stitched, this affords easy ripping if a fitting is necessary and all the fitting is done at 
the upper part of the waist in all instances. 

Be careful and purchase the exact size or exactly what your measure is around the waist and 
you will have a good fitting lining. They are made in linolawnblack, white and grey percaline, 
and in white and black Corsica silk. Every person should buy one of grey percaline fitted to 
herself, finish it. and have it stuffed up for the purposes of having her own figure for fitting 
and draping in the workroom. 75c & 5 1 - 00 

If your dealer cannot supply you, write us today ana we will supply you direct or give you the name 

of a reliable dealer who handles our line. 

Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Company, 327-329 East 34th St., New York 




weight, quality and texture of your material and go to a reliable lining store, 
asking them to show you their newest and most appropriate linings for the 
purpose which you desire, as new linings are constantly coming into fashion, 
and you will need to be informed as to the best. If you are lining a waist 
that needs a fitted lining, much time can be saved by using the Grean Fitted 
Lining, which is ready for use without having the trouble of cutting, fitting, 
boning, putting on hooks and eyes and finishing, or if it is a light weight 
waist, where a fitted lining is not desired the Grean Invisible Net Founda- 
tions will be most valuable to you. 

(G) PATTERNS. 

Unless you are an experienced designer, cutter and fitter never attempt to 
make even the plainest garment without a pattern. The cost of a pattern is 
so small and the help they give so great that you cannot afford to take 
chances of wasting your goods without a pattern to guide you. 

Always select a pattern exactly your own size — don't get one a size too 
large or a size too small, for if you do so you will take every chance of 
making a complete misfit of your garment. Always get your pattern before 
buying your goods if possible, for often you can save a yard or so of goods 
or save yourself from running short of material, by knowing exactly the 
required amount to make the article in question. 

With every Pictorial Review Pattern you will find a Cutting Guide show- 
ing exactly how to lay on your goods to the best advantage and how to 
guard against making any mistakes in cutting. There is also a Construction 
Guide, illustrating precisely how to put the garment together, so with this 
Manual of Sewing and Dress Making and a Pictorial Review Pattern, you will 
find it easy to cut and fit and make any garment you may desire. 

25 cents y (^ \ pTTfvn A See ?oT 96 

per box /A / jTV " ± ±J. \J XV l\. special offer 

Digestive Tablets 

For Indigestion, Dyspepsia, Belching of Gas, Bloating, Pain or Dis- 
tressed Feeling in the Stomach, Nausea, Sour Risings, Heartburn, 
and all Disagreeable Symptoms arising from a Disordered Stomach. 

Page 35 



(H) TAPE. 

It is almost impossible to make any article of wearing apparel without 
tape. For the waist you will need it in many instances; for the support for 
the hooks and eyes, for the binding around the neck and armholes and many 
other purposes, while on your skirts your seam must be bound, and for this 







BIASSEAHTAPt 

It turns itself 




TRADE MARK 
REGISTERED 



Once used — 
Always used 



"W. &N." 

Bias Seam Tape 

INDISPENSABLE IN THE SEWING ROOM 
Saves half the work making a garment. 




Beware of 
Imitations 



AT ALL DEALERS 

A very useful article for piping, finishing or binding seams on all materials 
and for fagotting. It will not shrink. "W. & N." Bias Seam Tape 

is a necessity in the home sewing room. Are you taking advantage of its 
usefulness.? 

White and colors. Made in highest grade Cambric and Lawn, 13 widths 

(*4 i n - to 1 in. wide); also in India Linon, Pure Linen and 

Silk, 4 widths (5-16 in. to } A in. wide) 

Sample reference book free, showing colors, widths and quality of materials. 

Wm. E. Wright & Sons Co., Mf rs . 

40 Lispenard St., NEW YORK. Dept. F. 



Page 36 



purpose no tape answers so well as the W. & N. Bias Seam Tape, which is 
ready for use and turns itself so the edge is always neat and even. On your 
underwear you will need it to bind over your embroidery ruffles, instead of 
facing, and when you have an embroidered edge to your garment as seen 
in Lesson 79, you will find that a support of the W. & N. Narrow Bias 
Seam Tape means an additional wear of many months. On the Parisian 
lingerie, which nothing in the world of the kind can rival in daintiness and 
beauty, you will see this tape neatly put on with the tiniest of slant stitch 
making a support just below the scallop of the embroidered edge and you will 
find it most satisfactory to follow their example. 



(I) DRESS SHIELDS. 

When protecting your garments from perspiration be sure and select a 
reliable dress shield — so many of the cheaper shields on the market today 
are anything but satisfactory and the ruined waists showing the stains just 
below the shields are a result of their use. And then too, there is an odor 
from the rubber of the cheaper shields that is very offensive to a refined 
woman. Added to these the fact that an unreliable shield will not wash and 
cannot be kept sanitary makes it imperative to procure a good reputable 
shield that can be relied upon to protect your gown or jacket. We use in our 
demonstrations and always recommend the Naiad Dress Shield. 



The Crowning Attribute of Lovely Woman is Cleanliness 

NAIAD DRESS SHIELD 




SUPREME IN 



Beauty ! Quality ! Cleanliness ! 



Guarantee with 
Every Pair 



POSSESSES two important and exclusive 
features. It does not deteriorate with 
age and fall to powder in the dress — can 
be easily and quickly sterilized by im- 
mersing in boiling water for a few seconds only. 
At the stores or sample pair on receipt of 25 
cents. 



Tl f* T* /"* f* Manufacturers, 

1 he t.I!.. tOnOVer LO. 101 Franklin St.,N.Y. 



Page 37 



(J) BONING. 

The subject of boning can be quickly disposed of, for all first class dress- 
makers and tailors use only the Warren Feather Boning, as it is by far the 
best known and most reputable boning on the market. 




(The Perfect Boning) 
for 

Waists, Linings, Girdles and Collars 

because 

Stitching on by machine holds the 
bone in place, giving permanent shape 

To bone a waist requires less than 10 minutes 

Send for our Instruction Booklet with 

attachment for machine 

FREE 

When buying waist-bones, collar-bones, collar-sets, collar-foundations, 

girdles and leaded dress weights insist 

that they are 



u 



-ip^M&tt" 



if£u 



YtMend- 




Three Oaks, Michigan 



Page 38 



(K) DRESS FORMS. 

If you do your own dressmaking or have it done at your home you should 
by all means provide yourself with a Dress Form, not only as a means to 
secure correct and perfect lines and insure a well fitting garment, but to save 
yourself the time and the tediousness of trying on your gowns. If you are 




^eiiftxriii 



It's 



You The Wonderful Pneumatic Dress Form 



Sold In Many First Class Stores 



Pneu Form is the easiest and handiest dress form 
m the world to manipulate. It is the practical 
invention of a woman and consists of a non- 
leakable air chamber made of specially prepared 
and well covered rubber cloth. 
To make Pneu Form reproduce your form, 
perfectly, you simply inflate it inside your fitted 
waist lining and before you stands YOU — 
shoulders, bust and hips — with looking glass 
fidelity. 

Pneu Form is mounted on an adjustable standard 
rod which may be raised or lowered to the exact 
height desired. 

For waist, skirt and dress making and fitting or 
for dress repairing at home, nothing can possibly 
take the place of Pneu Form. It relieves you 
of tiresome standing hour after hour for fittings, 
and enables you to study your own form while 
you work upon your own garments. 
One Pneu Form, serves for any number of 
persons by simply changing the waist lining. 
Write today for new illustrated booklet' 
"It's You," Edition H-I, containing full 
description and prices. 

Pneumatic Form Company 

557 Fifth Ave., near J,6th St. 
NEW YORK 




And this little box 
base holds it all 




tlwi S», jjBK 



Nothing so 

good for skirt 

fitting and 

draping 



Page 39 



making your own gowns there is no way without assistance that you can fit 
yourself without a Dress Form, and the fit of your garment is of far more 
importance than the quality of the material. With a dress form which re- 
produces your own lines perfectly you will be able to get a better fitting gar- 
ment than if it was tried on yourself, for during the tedious, tiresome fittings 
you change position so often that you are liable to change your lines, and 



YOUR VERY IMAGE 

in lines and proportions can be reproduced with a 

Hall-Borchert and Majestic 

GUARANTEED 

Perfect Fitting Dress Form 

Every style included — Adjustable and Non-Adjustable— of which we show a large variety for 
every purpose and figure. Dress forms are now considered just as necessary — just as indis- 
pensable to equipment of t .e sewing room as the Sewing Machine, Shears and Tape Measure. 
If you sew, have a dress form by all means — buy it at The May Co. — and get the benefit of 
these economical prices. Notion Dept., main floor, Euclid. 





— of trying to see how your 
dress fits in the back or how 
the skirt hangs with the aid 
of a looking glass need no 
longer trouble you if you 
have a Dress Form of your 
exact figure. 





t^ 



—effectively by the use of 
a Dress Form of proper size 
and shape to aid you — the 
form is always ready, stands 
without tiring, saves time 
and annoyance and its cost 
many times over. 




Hall-Borchert's complete correct Model Adjustable Form is in every way up to date; can be 
adjusted at neck, waist, hips, etc., conforming to any size or shape desired; simply and durably 
made, and will last a lifetime. Skirt can be adjusted to any style and can be raised or lowered 
to any desired skirt length. 

Correct model bust and dress forms at $1.00, $1.50, $2.50, $3.50, $5.00, $8.00, $10.00, $12.00 
and $15.00. 



Pictorial Review 
Pattcis 10c & 15c 
Main Floor Euclid 




EAGLE STAMPS 

FREE with 
Every Purchase 



Page 40 



the entire fit of your gown be ruined. All first-class dressmakers desirous of 
saving their customers' time, and their own as well, are supplied with a dress 
form, for the woman of today has neither the time or the patience to be 
fitted in the old, tedious manner. You should secure a Dress Form before at- 
tempting to make any of the up-to-date gowns, whose beauty depend so much 
upon the graceful lines, and which is impossible to get when you fit yourself 
without one of these forms. We show two of the most reliable reputable 
Dress Forms made and your dealer will gladly demonstrate them to you. 



(L) DRESS TRIMMINGS. 

The plainest, most inexpensive gown can be made attractive with well 
selected trimming. One can always procure such a variety of silks, laces, 
braids, bands and special trimmings, that a harmonious, suitable and desirable 
effect can be obtained. A person with a dull, colorless complexion must al- 
ways study the trimmings and adornment of their costume and some bright 
color, if only a dash of it, should usually be chosen. When you have a gown 
or suit that needs trimming, do not go to the first store you happen to pass 
and take anything that may be presented to you, but take a sample of your 
goods and go to a first-class dress trimming establishment and ask to be 
shown suitable trimmings for your goods and often you will find something 
new and attractive that in the ordinary way would have escaped your atten- 
tion entirely. 



Cleveland Dress Trimming Company 



^ COVERED ^ 

V^ tooR DE R ^ 



4 1 6 Euclid Ave. Second Door East of Opera House 



Page 41 



CHAPTER VII. 



SPECIFIC INSTRUCTIONS 



In the following lessons we teach you the right way of making each 
part of a garment and in the succeeding lessons whenever that portion of the 
article is to be made, reference will be made to the specific lesson treating of 
that particular subject instead of repeating the same general instructions over 
and over again, confusing the one who is seeking information and also taking 
up valuable space with unnecessary repetitions. 



SENSIBLE PLACES TO LUNCH 



EUCLID 
CAFETIERE 

328 Euclid Ave. 

F. M. Kirby Building 

MAIN 1565 



Luncheon 11 to 2 
Home Cooking 

No Waiting 

Prices Reasonable 

No Waiters 



NEW CENTER 
LUNCH CLUB 

813 Prospect Ave. 
P. C. O'Brien Building 

MAIN 3914 



Lesson 63.— PLACKETS. 

The mark which reveals the inexperienced or careless sewer is more 
quickly and more likely to be seen in the finish of the placket than in any 
other part of your garment, unless perhaps, it be in the making of the button- 
holes. The following rules must be observed. 

1 — Cut your placket binding exactly after your pattern. Do not do it care- 
lessly, but see that your pattern is laid on correctly and pinned securely and 
that you cut accordingly. 

2 — Cut your placket opening down exactly the right length, just far enough 
to get easily into the garment. Don't have it too long nor yet so short an 
opening that you immediately tear open the placket. 

3 — Be careful in picking up your skirt, or in trying it on, that you do not 
stretch the edges of the opening of the plackets. Your skirt will never fit 
smoothly across the back of the hips if you do. Stretching these edges means 
always a full baggy look. 

4 — Be careful that every stitch that shows through on the right side be 
positive and even. 

5 — Use only the best of hooks and eyes. We most highly recommend the 
Wilson Hook and Eye. 

6 — See that the placket comes to the exact notch at the right place on 
your belt. 

7— In making a placket, both edges of the opening must be faced, (Lesson 
53), the eyes sewed on the under facing and the hooks on the facing of the 
upper fold. The bottom of the placket must be made secure on the under side. 

Page 42 



BELTS AND BANDS. 

Lesson 64.— BELTS AND BANDS.— The belt or band may be of one piece 
doubled or may be of one piece lined or faced. 

If double, cut a straight piece double the width desired. Turn the top of 
the folded edge toward the garment and stitch. 

Turn over the under edge and hem down to cover the seam on the inside 
of the garment. 

If desired the belt or band can then be entirely stitched around. 

If the belt or band is faced sew the straight strip and the facing together 
and proceed the same as directed above. 

Skirts and dresses at present are made with high belt. For this purpose 
wide belting is used, 2j^ inches wide and fitted by gusset seams and boned 
into shape. However, the Grean Co. have improved this method by offering 
a seamless shaped belt thoroughly shrunk, which is a feature not to be over- 
looked in wash dresses, especially as wide belting shrinks from one to three 
inches to the ward. You can get the Grean Belt in three distinct styles: 

1 — Having bones as wide as the belting, for ordinary belting. 

2 — With bones ejecting above the belting, for the draping of waists. 

3 — With boning above and below the belting to form a pointed bodice 
effect. 

The object of the bone above the belt is especially useful to unlined or 
loose linings as some of the material can be draped or attached to boning. 



For the Use C* A T\T A T"} Safe 

of Careful ^ A\ I XI l\ K^ Reliable 

Refined Women K - r AA.A.^XA.^.'V Effective 

The Wonderful 

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for a Douche for Practically All Female Weakness 

Sanar can be used without fear of injuring the* most 

delicate or affected tissues as it does not smart or burn 

and is highly recommended by many of the most eminent 

physicians in this country. A trial will convince you of 

its merits. 

For sale by all leading druggists or mailed to you 
upon receipt of 50 cents. 

No Married Lady Should Be Without This Wonderful Antiseptic 

SANAR REMEDY CO. 

746 Euclid Avenue Cleveland, Ohio 



Lesson 65.— YOKE AND PEPLUMS— A yoke is a very particular part 
of a garment to make, but a peplum is much easier especially to fit. A peplum 
is used instead of a belt or band or draw string to hold down at the waist and 

Page 43 



keep in proper position the gathers of the corset cover or waist. However, 
in many of the fashionable waists of today the peplum is a part of the style 
of the garment and is worn outside of the waist. In such instances the 
peplum must be exceptionally well fitted or the effect is not good, but in 
any and all cases a yoke must be most carefully fitted. 

Cut out (Lesson 76). 

Baste up, fit and alter (Lesson 77). 

Sew up seams either by machine or by hand (Lesson 41). 

If yoke — attach collar (Lesson 66 or 68). 

If peplum — gather the waist or corset cover at the yaist line and put on 
exactly as if it were a skirt you were attaching. 

The fitting of the yoke must be entirely done from the shoulder seams 
and the small space of the under arm seams. If it is too tight or draws 
across the chest in wrinkles let out from under the arm and if too loose in 
the neck and across the chest take up the seam both on the shoulders and 
under the arms. All alterations for the neck must be made from the shoulder 
seams only. 

For the fitting of the peplum all adjustments must be made at the joining 
seams. You should be sure the pattern is exactly the right size about the 
waist before using. Care must be taken that the peplum is not made too 
tight or it will draw up and wrinkle. 




COMF>AMY 

"Where things are as represented" 

A GREAT STORE 5"flK3 

ALWAYS BUSY 
Prices Always as Low or Lower Than Elsewhere 

Dry Goods, Ready-to-Wear, Rugs, Etc. 

West 25th, Opposite New Market 



Page 44 



Lesson 66.— HIGH COLLARS. 

- 1 — Cut out (Lesson 76). 

2 — Turn in seams around entire collar sufficient to hide lining, which 
should be of cambric if lining is necessary for the material which you are using. 

3 — Hem down with slant stitch, taking care the stitches do not show 
through. 

4 — Sew on all trimmings and ornaments. 

5 — Sew on hooks and eyes (Lesson 59). 

6 — Sew in collar supports (Lesson 60). 

Lesson 67.— TAILORED COLLARS. 

A perfect cut of tailored collars is shown in the above figure. The tailored 
collars are rather difficult to make unless you are experienced in tailoring, so 
it is best to buy the under collars ready made, but if you wish to try to 
make them yourself the following instructions should be followed: 

1. Cut out exactly after pattern. 

2. Baste in soft pliable French canvas after you have carefully shrunk it, 
cutting it out the seam's width from the edges, for the canvas cannot be sewed 
in the seam with the lining without making it a little bunglesome. 

3. Catch the edges of the canvas to the cloth with the catch stitch (see 
Lesson 11), so the canvas will keep .in its proper place. 

4. Lay right side of goods to right side of lining and baste, being careful 
to keep the goods and the canvas and the lining always perfectly smooth. 

5. Sew around the bottom edge and the sides and turn right side out. 

6. Press very carefully. 

7. Sew on trimming. 

8. Press again. 

9. Attach lining of collar to right side of garment and sew down by 
machine. 

10. Then bring the outside material of collar neatly and smoothly down, 
turning under the edge and carefully overcast (see Lesson 6), taking great 
pains that your stitches do not show any more than you can help and that 
you have entirely covered the seam of the underpart of the collar and that 
you have kept an even line. Large stitches and an uneven turn of the material 
of the collar would ruin the appearance of the most beautiful suit. 



"Tailor - Made Coat Collars" 

//-^^\ -^i ^hia is a regular Tailor-Notch 
/ff.-JJ^C? A Collar, designed by Mr. Grean for 
/i'/""" /A those who find it difficult to shape < ,' 
*J'f /'-'<> an< ^ ma ke the under-collar. It is ' . 

r'/x'f /jVA/ . not necessary any more to make i 

'C-'/y < \f'i 1 / '\ collars of cloth to match on the 
/'; /.'/] / v/m ' \ underpart. Men's coats are never 
/ ; ,--V/ ■ ,' W"-"^ ' * made so, and invariably made in 
/ , •■ '. "-- ' \ either black or grey cloth. 

' \ \ i /' ' \ You will find Orean Tailor Made Coat Collars 

i \ 1 ' ' ' beautifully shaped and pressed. Accept no 

\ * ,' imitations or substitutes. If you cannot 

\ -- obtain Grean Specialties at your favorite 

\ . ,' dealer's, write us. We will supply you di- 

\ ' | e_ rect or through a reliable dealer and send 

vl 13C you a catalogue of other dressmaking helps. 

Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Company 

327-329 East 34th Street, New York 




l)i Is \ > \ St N 

(// // f < xxl ' ' 
1(1 // r / j (/ ' l 

)/ AVr/V/ ' ' 
)/ / r r i Jf ' 

// - This style is a 
i/ Z5c Shawl Collar 



Page 45 



YOUR CHARACTER SKETCH SCIENTIFICALLY GIVEN 

By the Expert and Noted Character Readers 

of the 

Acme College of Science 

Est. 1899 — Incorporated under the laws of Ohio 1907 

Your abilities, capacities, business, social and domestic qualities 
perfectly defined and your physical condition correctly diagnosed. 



Your character sketch as above 
stated and any three personal 
questions scientifically and 
perfectly answered by mail. 
Price $1.00. Strictly confidential. 



The Acme College of Science 

1714 Adams St., Toledo, Ohio 

The only incorporated College of its kind in America. 
Our students and satisfied patrons are found throughout 
the United States and Europe. 



Lesson 68.— TURN DOWN COLLARS. 




1 — Cut out (Lesson 76). 

2 — If stiffening is necessary use 
only cambric or the finest, softest, 
most pliable French canvas and baste 
it smoothly on the wrong side of the 
material. 

3 — If lined turn right of lining to 
right of collar, and stitch at outer 
edge. 

4 — If collar is to attach to gar- 
ment turn right side of top edge of 
collar to right side of garment and 
stitch. 

5 — Turn under side of edge of 
collar and hem down neatly to cover 
seam. 

6 — If collar is to be left separate 
turn inside edges and neatly stitch or 
sew down by hand, using the fine 
running stitch (Lesson 20), or the 
slant stitch (Lesson 5). 



Page 46 



PATENTED SHOULDER FORMS 

Shoulder Forms are used not for disfigured shoulders, but for garments where a permanent and a good shoulder 
fit is desired. They add a perfect outline to all shoulders; thin, pliable, not noticeable, inside the coat. They 
are basted to canvas and you wA\ save a number of hours of alterations, if you will begin to fit by first placing 
the shoulder form in suchposition as you would like to have your coat appear. 

15c Per Pair 

Shoulder forms are made in different outlines, High, Straight, and Sloping. Some are padded, 
and some are not, and fitters must use their judgment, as to what to use. Mr. Grean has de- 
signed special shoulder forms for different weight of garments ; from the lightest weight silk and 
taffeta, to the heaviest automobile and fur garments. 




Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Co. 



327-329 East 34th St., New York 




Lesson 69.— SLEEVES. 
See Cutting Guide, page 51, and Construction Guide, page 54. 
Many beginners think sleeves are the hardest part of the garment to put 
together, but much of the difficulty is removed if proper care is taken in ob- 
serving the directions and in- 
structions and paying strict at- 
tention to the notches. 

1 — Cut out. (Lesson 76). 
2 — Baste up seams. Try 
on and if necessary make al- 
terations. (Lesson 77). 

3 — Sew up seams on ma- 
chine and press. 

4 — Hem, (Lesson 48), or 
face, (Lesson 53), the bottom 
of the sleeve or cuff. 

5 — For No. 1 and 3, gather 
at the bottom of sleeve. 

6 — Find the notch where 
the fullness begins in the 
sleeve and turning the right of 
the sleeve to the right of the 
cuff tack to the notch in the 
cuff where the fullness starts, 
and tack again where the full- 
ness ends, being most careful to have the notches come exactly together. 
7 — Baste together cuff and sleeve and sew in securely on machine. 
8 — Gather top of sleeve between exact notches. 
9 — Attach where notches of waist designate. 
10 — Sew in securely on machine. 

Lesson 70.— SHIRT WAIST SLEEVE.— Follow instructions (Lesson 69). 
except the opening of the sleeve where cuff is attached must be faced back. 

The ordinary lap closing is made the same as the lap pocket. 

1- — Take a straight strip of the material, lay right side against right side 
of goods. 

2 — Baste down evenly and sew on machine. 

3 — Turn in edges of other side. 

4 — Baste to cover seam and sew either by hand or on machine. 




Page 47 



Lesson 71.— LAP CLOSING. 

The lap closing as seen in sleeve No. 3. 
1 — Cut two straight strips. 

2— For underlap put right side of strip to right side of sleeve and stitch. 
3 — Turn back and stitch by machine on both sides of strips. • 
4 — For upper lap sew on in same manner, turning the top of the strip 
either with perfectly square corners or in a neat V shape. 

CUFFS— PLAIN BAND. 

The cuffs belonging to the sleeves are sometimes a little awkward for the 
beginner, but a few suggestions mill make it plain just how to make them.— 

The plain Band Cuffs are put on the same as 6 and 7 of Lesson 69, but 
instead of facing, the bands are cut double width and turned back and hemmed 
over the seam which joins cuff and sleeve. 

CUFF— (Shirt Waist). 

They are completed before attaching to sleeve. 

1 — Cut out exactly after pattern. 

2 — If lined turn right side of lining to right side of goods and stitch 
sides and bottom of cuff. 

3 — Turn right side out and stitch again at the very edge of the cuff. 

4 — Attach as step 6 (Lesson 69), or you may — 

5 — Attach sleeve to lining of the cuff and turn back right edge of cuff and 
stitch to cover seam. The latter is much neater and gives a more tailored finish 
than when the top piece of the cuff is sewed into the seam. 

TURN BACK CUFF. 
Make exactly the same as for shirt waist cuff, except your cuffs are either 
made of double length to turn back or are attached at the bottom of the cuffs 
instead of at the top. 

Lesson 72. — COAT SLEEVE. — The coat sleeve is much simpler as steps 
six and seven are omitted. 

The coat sleeve is made exactly according to instructions of Lesson 69, 
except that the top of the flat coat sleeve, which is so much in vogue now, 
requires a little soft foundation. 

For this purpose the sleeve roll of the Grean Dressmaking Specialties will 
be found very useful. Baste inside of the sleeve, but outside of seam. Stitch 
your goods well over it, and put on edge of pressing board, put damp cloth 
over and hold down firmly until you have pressed out all the superfluous 
fullness. If the material is soft you can press out more of the fullness than 
if the material is hard or harsh. 



COMBINATION AR1VI PAD 

This Combination Arm Pad, is an article used always by all fitters that have 
ever tried it. It is very simple in construction, designed for the purpose of filling and 
correcting the general hollow parts between the Arm Hole and the Bust. 

If your dealer cannot supply you, write us and we will either 
fill your order or direct you to a reliable merchant. 

Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Co., 327-329 E. 34th St., New York is c 

Page 48 




Lesson 73.— POCKETS. 

The patch pocket, as seen in Lessons 87 and 107, is very simple to make. 
Hem tops and turn in bottom and both sides and stitch on garment. Sewing 
Apron pockets are made in the same way, except that their outer edge is 
usually joined in the facing or with the seam of the ruffle. 

The lap pocket as shown in the figure of the coat in Lesson 96, is the 
only one very much in evidence these days. The lap must be cut on an exact 
grain of the goods and should be lined with silk or some light material. The 
pocket should be of heavy mercerized goods made into a pouch the desired 
depth. 

Back stitch the pouch into the slit of the garment and stitch on the lap. 

To keep the slit from tearing into the cloth, it should be fastened as 
follows: Measure one-eighth inch above and one-eighth below the slit and 
mark. Then draw your thread from the top mark in a straight line to the 
bottom mark and back again on the opposite side of the goods. Repeat this 
process until you have firmly secured the slit— then bring the thread through 
and work over and over, letting the needle pass through the entire thickness 
of threads from the bottom mark to the top. After a row of stitching has 
been made at the bottom and both sides of the lap, back stitch the pouch into 
the slit of the garment, and stitch on the lap. 




Zoa-Phora Cold Remedy 



(Formerly Dr. Pengelly's Sure Shot) 



FOR 



Colds, Cough, SoreThroat, Croup 
and Protection Against Pneumonia 

An old proverb says: "Never neglect a fresh cold if you would 
avoid sickness." More suffering comes from neglected colds than 
from all other causes. A speedy and safe cure is invaluable. Such 
you have in Zoa-Phora Cold Cure. 

A NEGLECTED COLD.— Persons suffering thus are martyrs to 
every change of weather. The most trifling exposure renews the at- 
tack, rendering the disease still more difficult to treat, and at the same 
time increasing the severity of the usual symptoms, viz.: Sneezing, 
blurred eyes, dullness of hearing and smell, tightness at the root of the 
nose, cough, headache, pain in the temples, brow or cheek, sore throat 
or nostrils, etc. 

ZOA-PHORA COLD REMEDY improves the sight and hearing- 
Its most remarkable effect is the clearing of the head, throat, and_ re- 
storing the impaired voice. It does not operate on the douche principle 
of merely drying up and washing out the secretions, but restores the 
parts to healthy action. 

Zoa-Phora La Grippe Remedy 

Since the first invasion of the disease known as LaGrippe in this country, Dr. Pen- 
tiilly had been a careful student of its nature, symptoms, and results. These investi- 
gations, together with the use of certain remedies in the treatment of the disease, 
convinced the Doctor that LaGrippe was (from whatever inducing cause) a sudden and 
general congestion attacking more or less the whole system, hut showing its greater 
force on the weaker parts. From these deductions. Dr. Pengelly was led to formulate 
the now justly famous ZOA-PHORA LaGRIPPE REMEDY, which treatment, if taken 
promptly on the first signs of the disease— known by aching of the head, back and 
limbs sometimes with chilly sensations and nausea— will almost invariably meet and 
control the disease, thus preventing a tedious and perhaps dangerous illness. 
Price 50c per bottle 

The Zoa-Phora Cold Remedy and the Zoa-Phora LaGrippe Remedy 

are for sale at 50c per bottle at alllfirst-class drug stores. 

For partial list see page 96 of this book. 



Page 49 




Shino Dust Absorbing Articles 

Reduces the Labor of Dusting 
and Polishing One-half. 

Shino articles, as the result of a marvelous 
chemical process, attract dust, lint and germs, 
just as a magnet attracts steel. When filled 
with dust, rinsing in warm water makes them 
good as new. 

The Shino Chemical Dust Cloth. 
The Shino Chemical Dust Mop. 
The Shino Chemical Broom Cover. 
The Shino Chemical Mitten Duster. 
The Shino Chemical Floor Polisher. 
The Shino Chemical Handle Duster. 
The Simplex Mop Handle. 

Sold by all good dealers, or sent postpaid 
by the manufacturers. 

r»l| f*. Ail 4" f* 522 ° Sweeney Ave. 

Ine rioneerMrg. to. Cleveland, Ohio 



CHAPTER VIII. 
Lesson 74.— SPONGING AND SHRINKING. 

Wool goods should nearly always be sponged and shrunken as should 
ginghams and linens. Wool goods should be laid right side down and a wet 
ironing sheet placed over it and ironed until it is perfectly dry. Repeat at 
least once, but twice is better. This is a slow process, but your goods will 
stay fresh and in shape long enough to pay for your trouble. Ginghams and 
linens should be dipped in water in which has been placed a handful of salt, 
wring out and then press until dry. Very thin goods should not be sponged 
or shrunken, especially anything with a mesh. Sponging not only helps your 
garment to hold its shape better, but prevents its spotting and wrinkling so 
much. 

Lesson 75.— PRESSING. 

An electric flatiron is a great advantage to the woman doing her own 
dressmaking, but in case one is not at hand one must always, especially in 
making a wool garment, have a hot flat iron conveniently near. Much of the 
beauty of a gown depends upon its pressing, for a good presser can straighten 
out a multitude of little defects in sewing and stitching, while a poor presser 
can make the most carefully put together garment look badly. 

If you are not good at pressing it would be best to baste back your 
seams in their exact place until you get more accustomed to pressing them in 
place. Always have a good piece of cotton long enough to cover the entire 
seam. Dampen and iron till the cloth is perfectly dry then dampen once 
again and repeat the pressing, always remembering it is almost impossible to 
put too much good press work on a garment. In pressing folds always see 
that the fold is perfectly straight, and in pressing sleeves one should shrink 
considerable of the fulness that is apt to occur on the inside seam of the arm 
at the elbow. 



Page 50 



Main 2189 



For prices on any Sewing Machine 
or Supplies PHONE or CALL on 



SEWING MACHINE SUPPLIES AND REPAIRS 

BRYSON CO., 823 Superior N. E. 



Central 2259-L 



Expert Repairer will Call 
and Give Estimate 



Lesson 76.— CUTTING GUIDE. 

By courtesy of the Pictorial Review Co. we show their patent cutting 
guide. One accompanies every Pictorial Review pattern. It shows just how 
to lay out the pattern on the goods correctly and scientifically, just as an 
expert would lay it out in order to cut it from the least possible material. 

CUTTING GUIDE 4-4/0 



SIDE 6ftCK C^ 




POLO OP 36 INCH MflTERIflL WITH NAP 



BflO 



No puzzling for hours to find how to lay out the pattern properly, and no 
mistakes. Mistakes are impossible with this guide before you. 

There is absolutely no chance of cutting one piece the wrong way of the 
goods. No chance of cutting two backs or two fronts because a careless folder 
picked up two pieces instead of one. No chance of wasting an inch of material 

CUTTING GUIDE 4069 




FOLD OF 54 INCH MATERIAL WITHOUT NAP' 

more than you need. Pictorial Review Patterns are error proof and with their 
cutting guide a child can lay out and cut a garment as well as an expert. 

CUTTING. 

1 — Before beginning see that you have every thing necessary to go ahead. 
(See Department 6). 

Page 51 



2 — Provide yourself with a good paper pattern for your size and suitable to 
your style, height and individuality, and one chosen with due regard for the 
material to be made up and for the occasion of the wearing of the garment. 
Do not make the mistake of buying a pattern a size too large or a size too 
small, but get your own size otherwise the entire proportion of your garment 
is thrown out when you start to make alterations. 



Main-2371-J 



C— 6417 



ar=H 



r=]G 



"N 



r £ 



The Mandarin \ 

No. 622 Prospect Avenue 

^n i — i i =ir=i i==i r=i i= ir^=: it=H 



Cleveland's Finest 
and Most Elaborate 

Chinese-American Cafe 



Shoppers' Novelty Luncheon 



FROM 11 A.M. to 2 P.M. 



After Theatre Parties a Specialty 

Private Dining Rooms Reserved for Dinner Parties 

Special Attention Given Ladies without Escorts 



Our Kitchen is Open for Inspection to Patrons from 11:30 A. M. to 2 P. M. 



Page 52 



3 — If your goods are wool or gingham or such as need attention follow 
directions (see Lesson 74), for preparation. 

4 — Iron out every piece of your pattern and identify each section and if 
there is any doubt in your mind compare it with the similar piece on the 
construction guide, until you have made sure what it is and where it belongs. 

5 — If the garment has a lining cut the lining out first, baste it up and 
make all necessary alterations of the pattern (Lesson 77), and fit it perfectly 
before cutting into the dress goods. 

6 — Follow exactly the construction guide for laying on your pattern which 
you have altered to fit your figure. See that every piece is on precisely the 
right angle of your material as designated on the construction guide, and if 
your goods have a nap very strict attention must be given that the grain or 
nap lie in the same direction. The nap should always rub down except velvet, 
fur or plush, then it should rub up. Striped or plaid materials must be per- 
fectly matched so the strips run into the seams on the same angle. If the 
goods are flowered or have a design see that it all runs in the same direction. 

7 — When the width of the goods will permit lay the pattern on the double 
fold. 

8 — Pin down the pattern, being most careful to have it perfectly flat and 
no wrinkles in either pattern or goods. 

9 — When absolutely sure every piece is properly laid on cut out with very 
sharp shears so the goods are not frayed or haggled and under no circumstances 
fail to cut out every notch indicated on the pattern. 

10 — Then with tailor's chalk or with a colored cotton thread run a line 
showing all the marks and perforations of the pattern. This is of vital im- 
portance to the success of your garment, and will save you many possible 
errors. 

11 — Then proceed to baste together as directed in Lesson 77, and ac- 
cording to the construction guide, which is furnished free with every Pictorial 
Review pattern. 

A RELIABLE STORE 

The Boston Dry Goods Co. 

8813-17 Wade Park Avenue Cleveland 
13592 Euclid Avenue .-,. 

8601 Detroit Avenue UnlO 

14712 Detroit Avenue LakeWOOd, Ohio 



Selling Merchandise that bears the Stamp of Quality, 
at prices that are no more and often less than elsewhere 



Good Values Courtesy Progressiveness 

Page S3 



"VOTES FOR WOMEN " 



are not so necessary as 



»» 



44 LOTS FOR WOMEN 

Many of them are buying 
Home Sites in 

BEACH GROVE 

where all improvements are being 

installed and homes erected. #100 

down and $10 month buys a lot 

40x125 for $750. 

Take Euclid Beach Car to Beach Grove on Lake 
Shore Boulevard; get off at East 152nd St. 

The" 
ONELLY 

120, 121, 122 Williamson Bldg. 
Main 5283 Ground Floor Cen. 2044 



Greanet 
Invisible 
Waist 
Foundations 




Are used in making 
light weight lace or 
chiffon waists where 
a t ght-fitting lining 
would be out of place, 
specially for the sum- 
mer or for warm climates. It is made with a wide, beau- 
tifully shaped seamless belt, boned, which protrude 
above the belting and are finished with hooks and 
eyes, according to waist measure, This is the new 
Grean System of Fitting, to be guided by the waist 
and not by the bust, and the upper part of coarse Net 
which forms just the right kind of a foundation for 
light waists. These are made in Black and White. 

If you cannot obtain Grean Specialties at 
your favorite dealers, write us. We will 
supply you direct, or through a reliable 
dealer. 

Grean Shoulder Form & Pad Co., 

327-329 East 34th Street, New York 



Lesson 77.— CONSTRUCTION, FITTING AND ALTERATION. 

In the making of waists, hours of time, work and worry can be avoided by 
procuring the Grean Fitted Waist Linings and Foundations as it saves all 
of the labor of cutting basting, boning, putting on the hooks and eyes, etc., 
and needs to be fitted only by adjusting the seams above the boned portions 
and on the shoulders. But if you decide to make your own lining or founda- 
tion the following directions must be carefully followed. 

Do not attempt to put your garment together without this construction 
guide, or the one accompanying your pattern, constantly before you — for it 



CONSTRUCTION GUIDE 44JQ 




SLEEVE 
SECTIONS 




'SIDE BACK C 

will show you plainly which pieces to join together and just where to join 
them. Always see that the notches correspond and that the seams are taken 
up on exactly the line shown and that each portion of your goods is in ar- 

Page 54 



Have rpT?T T TIVT/^'C 1 French - American 

EEd lULLllMjiS ICECREAM? 



CONSTRUCTION GUIDE4069 




cordance with the diagram of your construction guide. The greatest of care 
should be taken in the basting up of the seams of your garment, for the effect 
lies in perfect lines and it is impossible to obtain these without good basting. 
If the garment has a lining, cut it out, put it together and fit it, and make 
all necessary alterations before cutting into the dress goods. See cut 4410, 



For Unlined Waists and Dresses 



USE 



Grean Shaped Seamless, Boned Girdle Form 



Made of 

wide 

herringbone 

belting 




Finished 

with 

hooks and 

eyes 



r 

35c at Your Dealer 

Sizes 22 to 33 inclusive Waist Measure, Black or White 



^.«e 



A SCREW DRIVER... 

is a very handy tool to have around, but 
naturally, you don't care to use it unneces- 
sarily, for it takes time. With a great many 
Rotary machines in order to remove the Shut- 
tle one has to use a screw driver and take out 
three screws, but with the White you simply 
raise a latch. It's another time saver which 
the busy operator will surely appreciate. 
Don't forget it! The White Rotary means 
more to you in a sewing way than you can 
think. We shall be glad to demonstrate it at 

any time. 

BOTH PHONES 

White Sewing Machine Co. 

426 Prospect Ave. 



Page 55 



Dr. Margaret B. Monks 
Osteopathic Physician 

302 Lennox Building 



Treatments by 
Appoin tmen t 



Res. Bell South 188-L 
Off. Bell Main 3938 



Central 


7273 -W 






Painless Dentistry 
Prices Reasonable 






T 


c. 


MILLER 








DENTIST 


Between 


the Square an 


dW. 


3rd St. 226 Superior Ave. N.W. 


Next to 


Collister 


&Sa 


yle 


CLEVELAND. OHIO 



for the diagram of the proper fitting, 
and in the diagrams of the construc- 
tion guide you will be able to as- 
certain just the place to make altera- 
tions. 

To lengthen waist lining at the 
waist line. — Cut across where per- 
forations indicate, and insert a piece 
the exact width of the shortage, fol- 
lowing the lines of the pattern so a 
perfect outline is kept. 

To lengthen over bust. — If a nar- 
rower shoulder seam does not make 
a perfect fit, cut across half way 
between bottom of arm hole and 
shoulder seam and insert piece to 
give desired length. 

If waist is too long. — Take up a 
seam on perforated lines. 

If too long over the bust. — Do 
not take the extra length up on the 
shoulders, as in this way the arm- 
hole is made too tight, and the neck too high. Take up a seam of the 
necessary width on line above the bust, half way between the shoulder seam 
and the bottom of the arm hole. 

If the neck or armholes are too large. — Take up on the shoulder seam. 
If the armholes are too small. — -Let out shoulder seam, or if necessary cut 
away very carefully. 

The sleeve pattern must be lengthened by an inserted piece or shortened 
with a tuck at the thick part of the arm and just below the elbow. 

If pattern is too large around the figure, take up in under arm seam and 
shoulder seam. If pattern is too small, let out under arm seams and shoulder 
seams. 

To alter for round shoulders. — Insert a piece in the lining two inches be- 
low the arm hole carrying a perfect upward line with the pattern, for care 
must be taken not to increase the width of the back pieces. 




4410 



Page 56 



To alter for very straight figures. — Take up a seam, the necessary width, 
two inches below the lower line of the arm hole. 

To alter for Square or Sloping Shoulders.- — If garment wrinkles, between 
shoulders or across chest or at neck or armhole, alterations must be made from 
the shoulder seams and arm hole. 

Skirts must be altered in the seams, and its length adjusted from the 
bottom or six inches below the hips, being careful to keep a perfect seam line. 

To take up skirt at waist. — Begin six inches below the waist line and 
increase seam gradually until the correct size is obtained about the waist. 

Or if skirt must be enlarged at waist. — Begin at the same point six inches 
below the waist and decrease the size of the seam. Care must always be taken 
not to take too large a seam across the hips, for if too tight the skirt will 
wrinkle and draw. 

If the hips are too large. — Begin six inches below the hip line and gradu- 
ally take up the seam, until you have a perfect fit. 

If the hips are too small. — Begin six inches below the hip line and de- 
crease the width of the seam. 

To alter for large abdomen. — Begin six inches below the waist line, at the 
hip line of the front and side gores, and let out gradually the seams the de- 
sired width, extending each gore an inch at the top. Increase also the side 
edges of the gores, and gradually slant to meet the side back seams, but do 
not alter any seams to remedy this trouble, except the front and the front 
edges of the side gore seams. 

Fpr flat backs. — Begin six inches below the waist line of the back seams, 
and alter, remembering, however, that it is better to take up as much of the 
fullness as possible, and fill in the hollow of the back by a hygenic and 
sanitary pad, than to alter the back of the skirt any more than absolutely 
necessary. 

After you have properly cut and fit and altered the lining of the waist and 
carefully measured and adjusted the pattern of your skirt, you will then be 
ready to cut into your dress goods, and the same general instructions apply, 
but before the outside material is cut into you must know that your pattern 
and lining are both altered exactly right. Then follow the specific instruc- 
tions of the lesson, which you are following in making the garment in hand 
and you cannot fail to have a well fitting, well made gown. The same general 
instructions of careful work and perfect fitting and correct alterations apply 
to the making of all garments. 



Gymnasium 

Open 

Oct. 1 to June 1 

Systematic 

Exercise and 

Recreation 

Turkish, Electric 

Light and Shower 

Baths Massage 



Apply to the 

Young Women's Christian 
Association 

Prospect Avenue and 18th 
Cleveland, Ohio 



West Side Branch 
Franklin and W. 32nd 



Broadway Branch 
Broadway and Hollister St. 



Summer Camp 

Open 

July 1 to Sept. 1 

Boating 

Bathing 

Out of Door Life 

Rest 

Lake Grove Farm 

Madison, Ohio 



Page 57 



CHAPTER XII. 
THE WELL GROOMED WOMAN. 

The well groomed woman is one who exhibits cleanliness, neatness, 
harmony and appropriateness of dress. She always has her hair neatly and 
becomingly dressed — her gloves, handkerchiefs and neckwear and all her 
fineries are immaculately clean and no rips, tears or spots are ever visible 
and no hooks, eyes or buttons ever missing and her shoes are always clean 
or shined. Her skirts always hang evenly and her belt never is out of place 
and above all her collar is always in perfect position and neatly fastened 
either with fancy pins or with invisible fasteners. 

The well groomed woman's clothes are never loud or conspicuous and the 
colors always harmonize not only with the occasion for wearing, but with her 
individuality and style. If she is inclined to be stout she does not wear plaids 
or reds or pinks or any of the colors or materials suitable only for slight, 
fairy-like figures and a painfully thin woman does not show good teste in 
wearing stripes and such combinations as are supposed to be worn only by 
women desiring to reduce the appearance of their size. In fact the well 
groomed woman studies herself, and gowns herself to express an innate sense 
of refinement and good taste, together with an appreciation of the appropriate 
and the beautiful. 

SCIENTIFIC BEAUTY CULTURE. 

Scientific beauty culture means bodily and scientific — that is, the wisest — 
care or culture of that beauty which Mother Nature gave to everyone, more 
or less, at birth. 

It is our duty to ourself as well as to others to be all that is bright and 
healthy and beautiful. We cannot be this if our livers are out of order and 
our complexion anything but what we would wish — open pores, skin dry and 




LOOK OLD? 

Wrinkles are only skin deep. These unsightly, 
telling marks of time, which make the face look old 
and cross are unnecessary — remove them with the 

B. & P. Wrinkle Eradicators 

Simple, certain, safe, contains no chemicals, leaves no 
marks. The skin can be made smooth, the wrinkles 
erased and the beauty greatly increased by the nightly 
application of these well known B. & P. Wrinkle Erad- 
icators. 

FROWNERS are for the lines between the eyes. Both 
are put up in 25c, 50c and S1.00 boxes, including booklet 
on care of face. Sold at drug and department stores. 
If your dealer cannot supply you we will send by mail, 
postpaid, on receipt of price. 

1790 East 68th Street 
Cleveland, Ohio 



B. & P. CO. (Two Women) 



Frank Dowd 

DENTIST 

Crown and Bridgework 
a Specialty 



Seventh Floor, Schofield Bldg. 
CLEVELAND, OHIO 



Page 58 



unhealthy — a state of neglect that makes the lines wrought by worries, ill- 
ness and time, to become deeper day by day. 

Sometime we may be rudely awakened by finding, on looking sideways into 
our hand glass, either that a gross ''double-chin" is beginning to form, with 
a line like a big wrinkle, which with maturer years will surely become a hard 
line between it and our original chin; or that the muscles and tissues of the 
cheeks have become relaxed, and in consequence there are flabby, pendulous 



MRS. ADAIR'S 

GANESH TOILET PREPARATIONS 
AND FACIAL TREATMENTS 

obtainable for years only at her Salons in New York, London, Paris and Nice, are the 
antithesis of "make-up", as they reach the CAUSE of all blemishes and re-establish by 
natural means a healthy complexion, sparkling eyes and a youthful contour. 

TIRED EYE TREATMENT restores tired, lined, 
discolored eyes to proper smoothness and fulness. $3.50. 
SUPERFLUOUS HAIR TREATMENT by antiseptic 
Electrolysis is almost painless. $2.50. HYGIENIC 
FACIAL MASSAGE, including the Strapping Muscle 
Treatment, restores lined, withered skins to velvety 
smoothness. $2.50. 

THIS PHOTO PORTRAYS 
THE GANESH CHIN STRAP 

($5.00, $6.50) which removes double chin and restores 
lost contour, and the 

GANESH FOREHEAD STRAP 

($4.00, $5.00) which cures deep lines between brows, 
corners of eyes and over forehead. 

These Imported Appliances, originated, owned and patented by Mrs. Adair exclusively, can 
be obtained nowhere else in the world. Faithfully used they accomplish the most wonderful 
results — everything that is claimed for them. 

MAIL ORDERS FILLED for all preparations and appliances on receipt of cheque. 

GANESH EASTERN MUSCLE OIL braces sagging muscles, fills hol- 
lows and removes wrinkles. Bottle, $5.00, $2.50, $1.00. 

GANESH DIABLE SKIN TONIC, a splendid face wash, strengthens 
the skin; closes pores and alleviates skin flabbiness and puffiness under 
the eyes. Bottle, $5.00, $2.00, 75c. 

GANESH EASTERN BALM SKIN FOOD for tender, dry skins. 
$3.00, $1.50, 75c. 

WRITE FOR VALUABLE BOOK containing list of all GANESH Preparations and 
Treatments and much beauty information and advice. 

NEW YORK, 21 West 38th Street. ph G one 3475 




LONDON 



92 New 
Bond St. W. 



PARIS Cambo 



Cambon 



reeley 

MIPP" 1 Rue 
ll*\_I-. Chauvain 




REGISTERED 
TRADE MARK 



Page 59 



Creme de Luxe 

is a delightful preparation to use in 
place of powder. Does not wear 
off. Makes skin soft and velvety. 
Send 12 cents for sample. For 
sale all stores. 

Creme de Luxe 

505 Beckman Bldg. 



OH 1VIY FOOT ' All foot troublespermanently relieved 
^ > y - ,KJ _• by scientific corrections under super- 



vision of a surgeon. 



MRS. R. FULTON 

Manicuring and Chiropody 

Room 604 Standard Bldg. 
323 Euclid Ave. Cleveland 

Recommended by N. 0. Stone 
Prop. Stone's Shoe Store 

Hours S a.m. to 6 p.m. 



1V1<i in 
2462 -J 




bags, hanging on either side of the chin, altogether altering the shape of the 
face and adding years to our age. 

In youth the soft, rounded contour is maintained in all its attractiveness 
by the support afforded by the fat beneath it to the skin that lies smoothly 
over it like unwrinkled satin. But when, from illness, adverse climates, or any 
other cause, absorption of some of this fat takes place, this even support of 
the muscles and skin is withdrawn, hollows are formed in cheeks and temples, 
and the skin falls into lines and furrows, and loses its beauty of coloring. 

There have been many treatments for the difficulties and for the cure of 
double chins, removing lines, and filling out hollows, but nothing has ever met 
with anything like the instant and entire success of the wonderful, effective 
treatment called the Ganesh Strapping Muscle Treatment, to which so many 
women owe their rejuvenated appearance, for it restores tone to the flabby 
muscles, raises them into place, and gives back the youthful shape and ap- 
pearance to the face. Your skin is not a dead thing to be left alone — it is 
a sensative part of you, exposed to heat and cold, it needs skillful, scientific 
and constant care. Mrs. Adair's methods of reducing superfluous flesh, double 
chin and restoring a youthful contour, of eliminating deep frown lines, of 
treating tired, yellow or blood-shot eyes are marvelously efficacious. 

No woman need lose the shape of her features nor the grace of her figure if 
she practices the Ganesh Exercises and Treatment, which are so clearly and 
thoroughly explained in the interesting and instructive book, "How to Retain 
and Restore Youthful Beauty of Face and Form," which you may have for 
the asking by mail or in person at the parlors of Mrs. Adair at 21 West 38th 
St., New York. 




Ellsworth Facial College 

All branches of beauty science 
taught. Personal instructions by 
Dr. and Mine. D. V. Ellsworth. 
originators, teachers and 
sole owners of the 
• Ellsworth System. Our 
graduates are every- 
where, be one of them 

ELLSWORTH COLLEGE 

514 Permanent Bldg. , Cleveland, 0. 
Huron Bldg.. Buffalo, N. Y. 
6U0 Madison Ave., Toledo, 0- 




716 Permanent Bldg. 



DeLong's 

Cucumber and Almond 

Massage Cream 

Used and recommended by 
Cleveland's best people. 

Call and Let Me Give You a Sample lar 

MAUD DeLONG SKALLA 

Dermatologist and Chiropodist 



Page 60 



THE WARDROBE. 

Often one does not know when to begin, when the subject of renewing 
their wardrobe presents itself, especially if one is preparing their clothes in 
advance for the season or perhaps arranging for a trip or a visit or for some 
occasion where a rather complete outfit is needed. Below we give a list which 
will help you in planning and serve to remind you of the essentials of every 
woman's complete wardrobe. 



1 — Union Suits. 

2 — Chemises. 

3 — Corset Covers. 

4 — Night Gowns. 

5 — Sanitary Skirt Protector. 

6 — Sanitary Belt. 

7 — Drawers. 

8 — Brassieres. 

9 — Corsets. 
10— Petticoats. 
11 — Hosiery. 
12 — Shoes. 

13 — Traveling or Street Gowns. 
14 — Evening Gowns. 
15 — Dinner Gowns. 
16 — House Gowns. 
17 — Negligee Gowns. 
18 — Kimona. 
19— Bath Robe. 
20— Housekeeping Gowns. 
21 — Aprons. 
22— Millinery. 
23 — Hair Dress. 
24 — Handkerchiefs. 
25 — Collars, Ties, Belts, accessories. 
26 — Coats. 
27 — Furs. 
28 — Jewelry. 
29— Veils. 
30— Scarf. 

Added to these are the numberless trifles 
too numerous to mention, but all of which 
must be considered in an incidental cost in 
case you are planning on just so much 
money to supply all your needs, and at 
least 10 per cent of your entire appropriation 
should be reserved for incidental expend- 
itures 



"Never Mind, Mamma" 




Monarch Polish will fix it 

Not a varnish — dries instantly. Con- 
tains no acid or injurious ingredients. 
Polishes and restores the original 
brilliancy and lustre to furniture, 
pianos, hardwood finish and hard- 
wood floors. 

A few drops on your dust- 
cloth does the work. 



Standard Polish for 35 years. Large size bottle 25c 
at your dealers' 



BAIRD BROS. & CO. 



Cleveland, 0. 



Page 61 






(A) CORSETS. 

There is no article in your entire wardrobe that should be given more 
careful attention than your corsets, for the fit of your gown — the grace of your 
carriage, in fact the foundation of your entire appearance to say nothing of 
your health and comfort lies in the well fitting corset. So much depends upon 
this one point, that the choice and judgement of the most experienced corsetiere 
should be consulted, for unless your corset fits your individual figure, your 
gown will not fit perfectly, neither will the most expensive, carefully made 
garment look its best. 

We at all times recommend the Berthe May "Hygie" corset as we find its 
hygienic and physical advantages cannot be disputed, as it does not constrict 
the waist and is designed and cut on the idea of supporting the abdomen, in- 
stead of pressing it down, like many other corsets do, and while supporting 
the bust, it allows entire freedom and full expansion to the chest, lungs, heart 
and stomach. In other words it will allow one to dress according to the 
latest styles, the same as with any ordinary corset, but without the torture. 

(C) SANITARY BELTS. 

There is one small article that no woman should be without and that is a 
Sanitary Belt, there are many makeshifts on the market, but they are most un- 
satisfactory, as unless they are properly constructed they either will not stay 
clasped or will not hold the napkins in place, but a well made belt can not only 
be worn with comfort but can be easily adjusted and will prove secure. There 
are but few more ruinous habits than the use of safety pins and improvised 
methods of fastening and your outfit is not complete without a belt of this 
character. 

N. B. — We have carefully examined the W. & N. Ladies Improved Sanitary 
Belt and we have found no better on the market. 




"W.&N." Ladies' 
Improved Sanitary 



High Grade 

Elastic Webbing at 

Side, Front and Back 

For Comfort 



A Standard Pattern with 
our improved 

"Never-Slip Clasp" 

( Patent Applied For ) 

Requires No Safety Pin 

Easily Adjusted 

Absolutely Secure 

Made in sizes 22 ins. 
to 48 ins. inclusive. 

Sizes of Belts are actual 

waist measure. 
Order large enough to 
drop well down over hips. 

At All Dealers 

If you are unable to procure 
it from your dealer, send us his 
name and 25c for sample belt, 
sizes 22 inches to 48 inches in- 
clusive. POSTPAID. 



Wm. E. Wright & Sons Co., Manufacturers 

40 Lispenard St. Dept. F New York City 



Page 62 



(C) SKIRT PROTECTORS. 

A sanitary skirt protector is a necessity to every woman's wardrobe, for 
one is never safe at certain times to wear their gowns and dainty underwear, 
unless a sure protection is afforded. If you get a good one you can wash 
and press it and always have it in perfect condition. We recommend the 
AMA skirt protector as one that will give entire satisfaction. 




THE AMA 
Sanitary Skirt Protector 

Patented Sept. 22nd, 1908 

This article is fully protected 
by patent. Beware of worth- 
less imitations. Always recog- 
nize our trademark before 
purchasing. 




*^&™ 



PSmmfW^ 



An article every woman will welcome 

THERE is now on the market a ready-to-wear 
wardrobe acce:sory, the need of which you 
have doubtless often realized, but have never 
before been able to secure in an ideal form. 

The Ama Sanitary Skirt Protector is an article 
especially desirable for the present mode of ladies' 
dress. For misses and ladies in summer attire or 
evening dress, business women, tourists, nurss 
and theatrical people it is almost indispensable. 
The Ama Sanitary Skirt Protector has so many 
salient featur.s that it cannot be ex elled for com c ort, 
fit and durability. It is absolutely waterproof, nmde 
of a high grade white rubber muslin, odorless, as 
flexible as fine linen, made with lace net yoke affording 
perfect ventilation and can be readily laundered. 
The excellent material used guarantees its wearing 
qualities. 

This garment is made in medium and 

large size selling at 

Price 50c, $1.00 and $2.00 each 

Upon receipt of price the Ama Sanitary Skirt 

protector will be mailed to any address in the 

United States. 

Call and let us demonstrate this article to you. 

A1VIA CO. 

117 CLARENCE BUILDING 

CLEVELAND, O. 



Page 63 



Earner flat ^oppe 

Exclusive Models in Dress 

and Tailored Hats, both 

French and Domestic. 

CORNER SUPERIOR AND 105TH 

THE WARNER HAT SHOPPE 

considers it possible for every 

woman to have an Individual Style 



ARBORj TEA SHOP 

6541 Euclid Avenue 

□□□ 

A Gift Shop and Tea Room 

where all Novelties in Art and Needle 

Work can be found 



(D) MILLINERY. 

A hat for business, the street or traveling should be selected of one of the 
soft plain shapes with simple trimming, but for church and theatre wear one 
may branch off into the more elaborate and trimmed effects and can satisfy 
their eye as to color and decoration of ribbons, feathers and flowers, but great 
care should be used that the selection be one that exhibits taste, refinement and 
a respect for the shape, style and setting of one's face and features. 

(E) SHIRT WAIST SUPPORTERS. 

There is nothing that ruins the entire appearance of a gown as the waist 
out of place above the belt line or perhaps showing a dividing line between 
the skirt band and the waist line. Every careful dresser, when wearing a waist 
that is separate from the skirt, should wear a waist supporter in order that a 
good effect about the waist can always be relied upon. There is no better 
skirt supporter on the market than is shown below. 

(F) LINGERIE. 

The night gown, chemise, corset covers and drawers should be of dainty 
muslin or fine linen, and if possible hand embroidered in any of the beautiful 
designs which can so easily be procured and done, with so much pleasure at 
one's leisure time if handy with the needle. Even though the edging and in- 
sertion be of fine lace or embroidery it will greatly add to the beauty of the 
garment to have at least a small floral design of hand work. 

Many make these garments entirely by hand, but the majority of women 




Price 15 Cents at Department Stores 
AGENTS WANTED 



Waist Cannot Be Displaced 

Little rubber pyramid "Units" grip and keep waist from 
riding up, at back; elastic sides, held in by patented 
" loop," take double hold without undue pressure. 

The "LOOP-HOLD" Shirtwaist BELT 

corrects a common fault in dress; great improvement over 
old style belts. Simple, practical, graceiul. Self-acting 
buckle stays put. No sharp points to hurt fingers. Metal 
parts cannot rust. Price 15 Cents. 

1/ not at dealers, sent postpaid, on receipt of price. 

DAVID BASCH, Pat'ee &Mfr.. 15 E. 17th St., New York 

Dept. S. 



Page 64 



(G) RAINCOATS AND WATERPROOF GARMENTS. 

Many people imagine Cravenette to be a cloth — a rain-proof fabric of 
some sort — but such is not the case. "Cravenette" proof is a process which 
renders a cloth or garment water-proof. The process permeates every fibre 
of the yarns, rendering the cloth permanently rain-proof, and rain will then 
neither wet nor spot the garment. You can have your coat, suit, wrap, or 
motoring garments made from the Priestley Cravenette Cloths, and you will 
find your needs perfectly met. If you are obliged to be out in all kinds of 
weather, rain or shine, you should by all means have a "Cravenette" rain-coat. 
We specify "Cravenette," because a genuine Cravenette-proof coat contains no 
rubber, is porous to air, yet rain-proof and has not the disagreeable odor 
common to most raincoats, and too, there is not the stiffness of the material, 
which renders many of the rain coats so undesirable and unattractive. The 
Cravenette-proof process leaves the cloth just as supple as before and every 
fibre of the yarns is made thoroughly rain-proof. The main point to bear in 
mind is to get a rain-coat that is strictly hygienic, keeping the dampness out 
without preventing ventilation. However, if you are only out in an occasional 
sprinkle or shower, a rain-coat is unnecessary, but you should have a street 
or business or traveling suit made of any of the Priestley cloths of serviceable 
and wearable mohair suitings, serge, chevoit, whipcord, twill, taffeta, henri- 
etta, which you can get "Cravenette" proof. 



•/. 



How to Tell 




BE6US- PAT OFF. 

This circular registered trademark is stamped on the inside and a 

Silk y^^y^pti^^fiyci^ Labe l is sewed at the collar or elsewhere. 

None Genuine Without Them 

The )££L~,. -4Sf is applied to many kinds of cloth suitable for 

men's, women's and children's outer gar- 
ments in light, medium and heavy weights for 

all seasons of the year, and are for wear in rain or shine. 

" Rain Will Neither Wet Nor Spot Them." 

They con t ain no Rubber, have no disagreeable odor; will not overheat or cause perspiration. 
For sale by leading dealers in Men's, Women's and Children's Clothing. 





t^Q^/ft2^t§#., Lt4 



K& 4 a*wwfit&t^.,USA 



Bradford, England 



(^ ^^%/yy^ 



Hoboken, New Jersey 



Bradford, England 

A postal to the New York office of B. Priestley & Co., 100 Fifth Avenue, will bring interesting booklet. 



Page 65 




A DROP OF OIL 

is all right in its place, but it's an 
annoyance, and more than that, 
when it gets on goods that you are 
anxious to keep clean. The oil cup 
on the White Rotary prevents all 
trouble of the kind. It's a trifle, but 
it is by attention to the little things 
that make the White Rotary the 
very best machine you can buy. 
Our terms will surprise you by their 
reasonableness. 

White Sewing Machine Go. 

426 Prospect Ave. 

BOTH PHONES 



Lesson 78.— CORSET COVERS.— Cut out (Lesson 76), of embroidery, 
nainsook, muslin, sheer lawn, linen, or any thin fine material. 

Make tucks (Lesson 54). 

Join seams with French seam (Lesson 47). 

Hem fronts. 

Hem peplem and fit (Lesson 65). 

Gather at waist line and make band of goods or of beading for belt (Les- 
son 64). 

Finish neck and armholes with embroidery scallops (Lesson 22), or face 
on right side with very fine embroidery. See Lesson 53.) 

Embroider any desired design (Lessons 19-25 inclusive). 

Make eyelets and run in ribbon to hold in fullness (Lesson 25). 

Close with small buttons and buttonholes (Lessons 29-30). 



Lesson 79.— DRAWERS. 




Cut out (Lesson 76). 

Join with either plain or French seams. 

(See Lessons 41 and 47.) 

Face both sides of opening (Lesson 53). 

Face around top for belt (Lesson 53). 

Put on ruffle (Lesson 56). 

Make buttonholes (Lesson 27). 

Sew on buttons (Lesson 30). 



Page 66 



have not the time to put so much personal labor on their wardrobe, but the 
character of a woman is more easily discerned by the daintiness, prettiness and 
completeness of her lingerie, than by the beauty or elaborateness of her best 
gowns. 

In France, a bride has never less than 12 pieces of each article of under- 
wear beautifully done by hand work and exhibited with great pride to all her 
friends. 

Remember in buying and making these garments that your lingerie with 
care will last for many years to come, and you can afford to put more time 
and expense on them than on your outside garments that change style, color 
and design to suit every whim and caprice of fashion. 




Lesson 80.— CHEMISE. 
Procure a good chemise pattern and make exact- 
ly as instructed in (Lesson 79), on the making of 
night gowns. 

Lesson 81.— NIGHT GOWN. 

Cut out (Lesson 76). 

Join with dainty French seam (Lesson 47). 

Embroider neck and edge 
of sleeves (Lesson 22), or 
fact on the right side with 
any desired trimming of 
fine lace or embroidery 
(Lesson 53). 

Embroider desired design. 
(See Lessons 19 to 25 in- 
clusive). 

Make eyelets (Lesson 25) 
about neck, and draw 
through ribbon to adjust 
fullness. 

Hem (Lesson 48). 



Lesson 82.— COMBINATION UNDERGARMENTS. 

Cut out (Lesson 76). 

Fit carefully (Lesson 77). 

Join all seams with French seams (Lesson 47). 

Set in yoke (Lesson 65). 

Put on beading and edging (Lesson 57). 

Sew on ruffle (Lesson 56). 

If for open drawers face both sides of opening 
(Lesson 53). 

Close with small buttons and buttonholes (Lesson 
29-30). 




3275 



Page 67 



Lesson 83.— PETTICOATS. 

Have plenty of white skirts plain or elaborate to match your other lingerie 
of your outfit, but have them made the proper length to wear with your 
house and evening gowns. For your sireet, business and traveling gowns, 
silk, heatherbloom or even a good quality of sateen is preferable. 




□GUI 



Cut out (Lesson 76). 

Join seams (Lesson 41). 

Face top (Lesson 53). 

Hem (Lesson 48). 

Join ruffle (Lesson 56). 

Make buttonholes (Lesson 29). 

Sew on buttons (Lesson 30). 



Chapel in Connection 

Jay P. Parrish 

Funeral Director 

Bell Phone, East 135 
1738 East 55th Street 



QBE 



Lesson 84.— SKIRTS AND UNDERWEAR WITHOUT PLACKET. 

Face upper edge of the garment (see Lesson 53). Stitch the facing down 
securely, and where the fullness commences make a slit on each side and 
insert a tape, drawing it through the slit on the opposite side. The slit should 
be carefully worked with the button hole stitch (Lesson 24). 

DRESSING SACQUES AND KIMONAS. 

Have your negligee gowns as attractive as your skill and means will 
permit, for it is the dainty feminine expression of lingerie and negligee gar- 
ments that expresses the refined womanly tastes and will prove of pleasure to 
you so long as they last. The material can be of large figured silk, challie, 
fleece lined goods, lawns, dimities, soft flannels or in fact almost any pretty 
fabric may be used. 

Page 68 



LADIES! Why not go to the 

"Shop of Kimonas and Art Laces" 

and Save ONE-HALF before buying ? 

Call At 

150 The Arcade 

And 

See Our Beautiful Designs and Get Our Low Prices 



Lesson 85.— DRESSING SACQUE. 

Cut out (Lesson 76). 

Lay pleat in back. 

Sew all seams. 

Hem bottom (Lesson 48). 

Gather on ruffles (Lesson 56). 

Face collar (Lesson 53). 

Shirr sleeves at elbow and shirr around 
waist (Lesson 55), and finish with dainty bow 
of bright ribbon at the waist. 




3591 



Lesson 86.— KIM ON A. 



Cut out (Lesson 76). 

Sew all seams on machine. 

Hem bottom of garment (Lesson 48). 

Make yoke and attach (Lesson 65). 

Make sleeves and put in (Lesson 69, omitting 
5-8). 

Face edges and sleeves (Lesson 53). 

The facing should be of satin or some contrast- 
ing shade of the same or a lighter material. 

Q^FDon't overlook the new scientific drugless treatment explained 
on -page 4- 




Page 69 




Lesson 87.— APRONS. 



Aprons are the simplest of all 
garments to make, No. 3857 is 
especially easy to make. 

Cut out goods (Lesson 76). 

Face all edges (Lesson 53). 

Make pocket (Lesson 73)." 

Make one buttonhole and sew 
on button (Lessons 29-30). 



No. 3180 requires a little more 
time and effort. 

Cut out (Lesson 76). 

If embroidery for ruffle, bib and 
pockets is not used hem ruffle 
(Lesson 48). 

Face bib and pockets (Lesson 
53). 

Put on ruffle (Lesson 56). 

Put on pockets (Lesson 73). 

Gather and join bib to skirt of 
apron. 

Put on band (Lesson 64). 




385? 



KlL UNSTRUNG- 



Is This the Condition of 
Your Nerves? 

Is that the condition of your nerves? If so, your system is 
just like the violin shown above; utterly unable to perform 
the work for which it was intended. Until there is an im- 
provement in these conditions, there is no chance for harmon- 
ious action between the various organs of the body. The office 
of the nervous system is to control and direct the vital forces. 

If the nerves are not strong, healthy and in proper tone they cannot do this work any more than can the violin 

give forth sweet and melodious music when "all unstrung." 

You Do Not Need a Nerve STIMULANT, But a NERVE Food. 
Is a Nerve Food and Strength Builder. 




mmk 



is prepared especially to build up and strengthen the nervous system. At the same 
time it purifies the blood and regulates the circulation, so that the nerve centers may 
distribute the vital forces to the organs in need. 
If you'are only slightly nervous, you ought to take ZOA-PHORA at once and thus thwart the onward march of the 
disease. If your nerves are already in such a shattered condition that they are threatened with nervous prostration, 
ZOA-PHORA will give you relief and strengthen your nervous system. 

Read Page 95 for the Special ZOA-PHORA Oiler 



Page 70 







40S5 



Lesson 88.— LINGERIE WAIST. 

Choose your pattern and 
follow the instructions of 
Lesson 90, on making 
shirt waists, altering by 
selecting the desired de- 
sign and effect and mak- 
ing according to 

Sleeves, Lesson 69 or 70. 

Collars, Lessons 66, 67 
and 68. 

Yoke, Lesson 65. 

Trimmings and Finish, 
Lessons 54, 57, 58 and 62. 

If a Lining is desired 
make according to Les- 
sons 76 and 77. 

Lesson 89.— HOUSE KEEPING GOWNS. 

Your house keeping gowns should be of percale 
or gingham or some wash goods so that at all times 
you can be immaculately clean. 

Have them made plain and simple so they can 
be easily gotten into and also have your aprons 
large, and of a material that washes neatly. 

Use instructions (Lesson 76), taking steps ac- 
cording to numbers; X-l, X-5, X-7, X-8, X-9, X-15. 

Then put on facing about sleeves, neck and 
down front and belt (Lesson 53). 

Now hem skirt (Lesson 48). 

Sew on buttons and make buttonholes (Lessons 
29-30). 




"It's Easy to Pay the Rosenblum Way" 

STYLISH GOODS 

For Man, Woman or Child 
$1.00 PER WEEK pays the bill 

WE GIVE STAMPS 

We Make Good Unsatisfactory Purchases 
We Never Misrepresent 

GIVE US A CALL 

M. Rosenblum Credit Clothing Co. 

2014 Ontario St. Cor.^hamplain 




Mr. Rosenblum Himself 



Page 71 



There Must Be a Reason 

Why our business is growing by leaps and bounds. Hundreds of 
new customers are added to our already large patronage every 
month. 

There is a Reason — 

We are not in the High Rent District. 

We do not handle any premiums nor give trading stamps (the customer, of 
course, pays for both at all stores where they give them). 
We do not have any collectors. 
Our operating expenses are low. 

The quality of our merchandise is the best and our guarantee of absolute satis- 
faction is given with every sale. 

All Goods Sold on $1.00 a Week Payments 

Complete furnishers — Hats, Suits, Coats, Shoes, Dresses, Skhts, Waists, Jewelry, etc. 

CLEVELAND CREDIT CLOTHING CO. 

Over Atlantic & Pacific Tea Company's Store 2165 Ontario Street, Upstairs 



Lesson 90.— SHIRT WAIST.— A shirt 
waist is something it seems no one has too 
many of — they are so useful and so nec- 
essary for so many occasions and can be 
constructed of such a variety of fabrics and 
in such a wide range of styles. 

1 — Cut (Lesson 76). 

2 — Join with plain seams (Lesson 41). 

3 — Fit and make any necessary altera- 
tions (Lesson 77). 

4 — Form box pleat in right front, and 
stitch on both sides of pleat. 

5 — Hem the underside of the front clos- 
ing. 

6 — Make sleeves and attach (Lesson 70). 

7 — Gather at waist line in front and back, 
and attach a belt or stitch bias band to hold 
gathers secure. 

8 — Make collar (Lesson 66), and attach 
or put on neck band (Lesson 64), and leave 
collar loose. 

9 — Make buttonholes and sew on buttons 

(Lesson 29-30). 

Lesson 91. — GOWNS. — We will give directions for making gown 4533 as 

it contains nearly every element and requires the explanation of nearly all 

points of dressmaking. By following these instructions carefully and faithfully, 

turning to the specific lesson as indicated, you cannot fail to develop your 




Page 72 



Ptawi 3fttBtrufitum 




IHrs. Abbte £. Jfo.rr (5^*0 




Suite 201 Beckman Building 




409 Superior N. W. 




Prices Moderate 
Established 30 Years in Cleveland 


Phone 
Bell— Main 1435-J 



gowns most successfully. 

After making one gown and getting in 
touch with the principles of the cutting and 
fitting and making of garments, it will be easy 
for you to make from time to time the changes 
that are necessary in order to follow the decrees 
of fashion. 

No. 4533 is one of the most popular known 
styles at present for wedding gowns, but it is 
equally as appropriate for reception, dinner or 
evening wear. 

Keep always before you the following rou- 
tine of suggestions and refer unfailingly to the 
special lessons as directed. 

1 — Lay on goods (see cutting guide, Les- 
son 76). 

2 — Cut out lining (Lesson 76 — 1 to 6). 

3 — Baste all lining seams (Lesson 76 — 3). 

4 — Fit and make necessary alterations (Les- 
son 77). 

5 — Cut out dress materials (Lessons 76-6-11. 

6 — Baste waist pieces over lining, being 
careful not to stretch out of shape. 

7 — Fit and make necessary alterations (Les- 
son 77). 

8 — Sew on machine all seams. 

9 — Make and put in sleeves (Lesson 69). 
10 — Hem bretelle, and gather lower edges bringing edges together at 
center front and cross in back, and baste firmly in exact position on lining. 

11 — Make collar and sew on (Lesson 66). 

12 — Hem tunic and edges of tunic (Lesson 48). 

13 — Baste top of tunic on top edge of skirt. 

14 — Make placket (Lesson 63). 

15 — Gather upper edges of skirt a nd adjust to waist. Baste and sew 
firmly on machine. (See following page). 




Page 73 



16 — Face bottom of skirt (Lesson 53). 

17 — Sew on hooks and eyes (Lesson 59). 

Any ornamentation suitable to the materia! and in harmony with the 
occasion to be worn may be used. For an evening gown the upper portion 
of both lining and material of the waist can be cut away, making as low or 
as high cut gown as desired. 



To be Dressed in the Latest Fashion Select Your 
Styles from the Season's Number 

The PICTORIAL REVIEW 
FASHION BOOK 



For sale by 

The May Co. 



Costs only 5c 

When Purchased with a 15c pattern 



For sale by 

The May Co. 



Charming Lingerie Frocks Smart Street Toilettes Afternoon Dresses in Foulards and Taffetas 

New and Fascinating Evening Gowns An Alluring Assortment of 

Lace Blouses in the New Casaque and Peplum Styles 



The PICTORIAL REVIEW is not wholly 
a fashion magazine although it carries more 
and better styles than any fashion magazine 
published. 

The fiction stories in PICTORIAL RE- 
VIEW are equal to the very best you can 
get anywhere. They make the so-called 
"fiction-magazine" unnecessary. 

The special articles in PICTORIAL 
REVIEW are on subjects of interest to 
women. We believe that the real American 
woman does not consider "home" to be just 
the house in which she lives. We find 
that she considers "home" to be the city, 
state and nation in which she lives. She is 
very properly interested in the schools which 
her children shall attend, in the politics which 
make taxes high and her rent accordingly 
higher, in life insurance which cares for her 
when the bread-winner is suddenly taken 
away, and in many other subjects which are 
of vital importance to her daily living. The 
up-to-date American housewife is a thinking 



woman. She is looking for more information 
constantly and PICTORIAL REVIEW 
furnishes that knowledge. 

The household departments in PICTOR- 
IAL REVIEW, departments on cooking, 
marketing, housekeeping, home decoration, 
etc., are written by experts and their in- 
formation is practical and daily useful. If 
you wish to please your husband's palate 
just give him some of the good, plain, tasty 
dishes described in PICTORIAL REVIEW'S 
COOKING DEPARTMENT. With these 
departments before you a magazine devoted 
wholly to housekeeping is a needless ex- 
travagance. 

In short, PICTORIAL REVIEW is "The 
Magazine for Women." It covers every 
range of woman's activity completely. It is 
a necessity in every home. Its suggestions, 
its ideas will save much more than the cost 
of the magazine for a year. 

You had better subscribe now and find out 
about our magazine and our patterns. 



The Pictorial Review Company 



San Francisco 
Vienna 

Headquarters: 222-224-226 W. 39th St., NEW YORK 



New York 
London 



Chicago 
Paris 



St. Louis 
Berlin 



Page 74 



Lesson 92.— EVENING AND DINNER GOWNS. 

Every wardrobe should hold as many evening gowns as the individual 
will have need of, and they should be as simple, or as magnificent as her 
station in life demands, but for younger women prettiness and daintiness and 
attractiveness should be the aim rather than richness, elegance or elaborate- 
ness. 

Select carefully your materials with a view of perfect keeping with your 
social demands and associates, as often too elegant evening gowns lie unused 
for a season and unenjoyed, when the same amount of money expended in two 
or three simple evening frocks would have constantly served to the pleasure 
and needs, yet sometimes the other extreme is met, and a number of cheap 
inappropriate useless garments purchased when one good garment of a more 
suitable nature would have been a better investment. For making see Lesson 91. 



Lesson 93. — GOWN 30. — 'Make exactly according to 
Lesson 91, except the breteile is crossed in the front 
instead of the back, and the panel is used instead of the 
all-over flounce. 



Phones 
Main . . 4598 
Central 1379-W 








Notary Public 




c. 


F. &G. 


N 


. SHAVER 






Attorneys 


At Law 


1002 American Trust Bldg. 




CLEVELAND, OHIO 




Page 75 



Boarding 

Home 

Transient 
Accommodations 

Employment 
Bureau 

Travelers' Aid 


Apply to the 

Young Women's Christian 
Association 

Prospect Ave., and E. 18th 
Cleveland, Ohio 

West Side Branch Broadway Branch 
Franklin and W. 32nd Broadway and Hollister St. 


Stenography 

Book 
Keeping 

English 
Typewriting 



Lesson 94.— THE STREET, TRAVELING OR BUSINESS SUIT. 

For outdoor purposes or for business your suit should be of a practical 
shade, which will not show the dust or ravages of every wind and drop of 
rain. The favorite shades are tan, brown, dark blue, grays, etc., and a 
bride with limited means may make the traveling gown serve as the wedding 
gown also. In this instance it is not good taste to have it elaborately trimmed 
or in. any way conspicuous to call attention to the honeymoon couple, but a 
traveling gown should be of the same style and character as the well-designed 
appropriate street gown, and hat and gloves and shoes should be of the same 
quiet shade. 



Lesson 9.— SKIRTS. 

The prevailing modes of skirts are very easy to make. 
Cut out (Lesson 76). 
Baste seams (Lesson 3). 

Try on, making necessary alterations (Lesson 77). 
Sew up seams (Lesson 41). 
Make placket (Lesson 63). 
Put on belt (Lesson 64). 
Hem (Lesson 48), or face (Lesson 53). 
Trim with bias band strips, stitching, braiding, buttons 
or in any desired manner. 




4069 



J. F. S MITH'S "HAIR VI1VI" - The Bes * Known Preparation 

^ For the Hair 

Promotes growth of the hair — prevents and cures baldness. Removes dandruff— cures diseases of the scalp— imparts lustre and 
beauty, restoring the color of the hair by supplying to it the natural elements and nourishment which it needs 

Made In Two Colors, Light and Dark— Price Fifty Cents and One Dollar— A Trial Will Convince You 

Recommended by Walter Bellchamber and All Leading Hairdressers and Druggists. 



SMITH CHEMICAL COMPANY 



10607 Morison N. E. 



Page 76 



Lesson 96.— CLOAKS AND SUIT JACKETS. 
There are several methods of making jackets and coats, but the difference 
lies chiefly in preparing the fronts. Some tailors sew cloth and canvas to- 
gether and some tailors use fronts 
of canvas prepared separately to fit 
the outside. Those who are unable 
to make a good tailor made front 
will find Grean's Tailor Made Coat 
Front Foundations to be almost a 
necessity. They are made for up- 
to-date styles in a variety to suit 
different coats, from the lightest silks 
to the heaviest automobile garments. 
They are all very soft and pliable, 
but well tailored and firm enough to 
support and retain shape permanent- 
ly. The foundation for the front of 
your coat or jacket is very important, 
but you can detect cheap worthless 
coat front foundations by their stiff- 
ness, which is usually nothing but 
glue, and renders it unfit to be used 
in your garment. The present styles 
demand soft coat fronts, but a tail- 
ored made coat front, for a tailor- 
made coat or jacket, must have more 
in it than an ordinary piece of can- 
vas without preliminary preparations of careful sponging and shrinking. 

"Tailor- Made' ' Coat Front Foundation 

By examining the drawing alongside which shows the inside view of 
the Grean Tailor-Made Coat Front Foundation, you will notice that 
it is a complete coat front. It is not only a foundation over 
which the cloth is placed, but it is also part of a pattern by which 
one can be safely guided. They are made of the best material 
appropriate for this purpose and are thoroughly sponged and 
shrunk. A good sized arm-pad surrounding, made of white French 
felt and edges of the best herringbone hair-cloth used for center 
stiffening, are protected with a white linen stay, a wide button hole 
stay runs the whole length of the coat, and at the top, in the should- 
er, you will find a Grean patented Shoulder form. 

These tailor-made coat front foundations are made in different weights and 
lengths, from the short Eton coat to a 32 inch length coat so much worn now. 
You will find them in variety to suit all requirements, lightweight silk or velvet 
coat, medium weight tailor suit, heavy winter suits and fur garments. Grean 
Tailor-Made Coat Fronts Foundations are distinguished by their beautiful shaping 
and tailoring and every season the shapes change according to the prevailing 
fashions. To those who have found difficulty in making coat fronts for them- 
selves, it will be a good lesson and example to study Grean ready made and tailor- 
made coat front foundation, which can be purchased for much less than one can 
make themself. Accept no imitations or substitutes. If your dealer cannot 
supply you write us immediately. 

GREAN SHOULDER FORM & PAD CO., 327-329 E. 34th St., New York 





50c 

to 

$1.00 



Page 77 



There is no more particular work in dressmaking than the proper tailor- 
ing of a jacket or coat and you should never attempt to make one of these 
garments in a hurry. 

1 — Lay on goods (Lesson 76 — 1 to 5). 

2 — Cut out lining (Lesson 76 — 5). 

3 — Baste up lining seams (Lesson 3). 

4 — Fit and make all necessary alterations (Lesson 77). 

5 — 'Cut outside material (Lesson 76 — 6-11). 




50c 



Short Coat-Fronts 

Short Coat Front, made 
of Hair-Cloth, beauti- 
fully shaped and used in 
either short coats or long 
coats where only bust re- 
inforcing is necessary and 
is extensively used in 
altering garments where 
a coat front of canvas has 
been already used but has 
lost its original shape. 




35 to 50c 



GREAN SHOULDER FORM & PAD CO., 



If you cannot obtain 
Grean Specialties at 
your favorite dealer's, 
write us. We will 
supply you direct or 
through a reliable 
dealer and send you 
a catalogue of other 
dressmaking helps. 



327-329 East 34th St. 
NEW YORK 



6 — Baste in bust forms of hair cloth or soft canvas. You can purchase 
these ready made at any of our advertisers carrying Grean dressmaking 
supplies. 

7 — Join seams of lining, and press seams open. No work or stitches 
should be left visible on the lining, for much of the beauty of the coat or 
cloak depends upon this part. 

8 — Baste goods over lining and try on and fit perfectly (Lesson 77). 
9 — When an exact fit has been obtained detach from lining, sew up seams 
in desired manner (Lesson 41), and press (Lesson 75). 
10 — Make and put in pocket (Lesson 73). 

11 — Put in lining right side out and attach with very small slant stitches 
(Lesson 5). 

12 — Make sleeves (Lesson 72), press and sew in, turning in the lining to 
cover the seam. 

13 — Make collar and attach (Lesson 67). 

14 — Make buttons and buttonholes (Lessons 29 and 30). 

IS — Again press the entire garment. 

16 — The trimmings can then be sewed on, in any style or manner desired. 

By paying strict attention to the above directions you will be able to work out 
a well fitting, nicely finished garment and the saving of doing this work yourself 
will allow you to put extra money into a better grade of material than otherwise 
you could choose or you can practically buy the goods for another suit. 



Page 78 




ZOA-PHORA 

Antiseptic Vitalizing 

CONES 

Are for local treatment and are anti- 
septic in their action on Diseased Tis- 
sue and Unhealthy Conditions. They 
allay Inflammation and heal the irri- 
tated parts. They contain Nerve Tonics 
which are absorbed into the Blood and 
Give Vitality to the Whole System, 

The Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing 
Cones are a female suppository, safe, reli- 
able and effective. Beware of dangerous 
imitations that contain mineral and poisons and which have'no established 
reputation. The Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones have in the past 
fifty years permanently relieved thousands upon thousands of women and 
the price of a month's treatment for 50 cents makes them within the 
reach of all. Read on the last page of this book your druggist' special offer 
to you of a free ten days' treatment of these Cones. Ten days' treatment 
will convince you that no matter how serious your condition a positive relief 
has been found. Sample free upon request. 



L 



71. P^t^£L. ^6. a 

ANTISEPTIC 

VITALIZING COHES 

ZOA-PHORA CO., Proprietors, 

KALAMAZOO, - MICHIGAN. 

PRICE, 50 CENTS. 




CHAPTER XIII. 
MATERNITY OUTFIT. 

The outfit an expectant mother prepares for 
herself depends entirely upon what her duties 
require of her during this period, but in all in- 
stances the clothing must be loose and comfort- 
able and both the dress and underwear should be 
supported from the shoulders. Special atten- 
tion must be given the matter of corsets and to 
the lining of the gowns, as not only the appear- 
ance, but the comfort of the individual depends 
to a large extent upon these two things. 



Page 79 




BERTHE MAY'S 

Maternity Corset 

The only corset of this kind made for its own purpose. 

Every woman should have this corset in her wardrobe, to be used 
whenever needed, as it can be worn at any time, in a normal condition, 
as well as during the maternity period, thanks to its exclusive and 
simple system of gradual enlargement. It procures an absolute 
abdominal support at all times, enables women to dress as usual, to 
preserve a normal appearance and to attend to their every -day vocations. 
Physicians use it in their own families aud prescribe it to their patients. 

Orders by mail filled with absolute satisfaction because of my perfect 
yet simple measurement system. 

Prices from $5.00 to $18.00 

Write for free booklet No. 15 

Which will b; sent under plain envelope, together with photographic 
reproductions and full information. 

BERTHE MAY, Mfr., 10 E. 46th St., New York 



(98)— MATERNITY CORSETS. 

No expectant mother should go without a corset, but she should never 
wear the ordinary style and cut, as her own health and that of her child 
would be materially injured by such a course. A maternity corset must com- 
bine as an abdominal support and a corset — in fact it must be a protection to 
the abdominal walls against too great relaxation and yet must serve to give 
grace to the figure and to make it possible for her to go about and be active 
during the entire period. The most celebrated maternity corset that has come 
to our notice is the Berthe May "Lucine" corset, and upon examination and 
investigation we find that the "Lucine" corset is so constructed that it can be 
worn as early as wanted, and allows the mother to dress as usual, to preserve 
a normal appearance, to deport herself with the greatest comfort, and to 
attend to her customary vocation during the whole term of her pregnancy. 

It is manufactured to be an absolute safeguard against all accidents for 
the mother as well as for the child, on account of the healthy support which 
it gives both the abdomen and to the back. The Lucine corset can be made 
gradually larger when wanted, through a system of inside plaits of the mater- 
ial, which can be opened successively when more room is needed, and it can 
be reduced to a normal size and worn as long as desired after the child is 
born, the same as an ordinary corset, and yet with its own particular ad- 
vantages, thus affording the comfort and safety so necessary in a weakened 
condition of the abdomen. 



Page 80 



Lesson 99.— MATERNITY GOWN. 




The instructions found in Lesson 91, make this 
gown perfectly, except the lining is finished altogether 
differently. 

See cut of lining at top of Fig. 3916. Instead of 
making in the usual way the lining has dart seams 
starting from the shoulder and the center of the 
neck, and extending to the bottom of the waist lining. 

The opening down the front shoulder is hemmed 
back, and the dart seams either side from the shoulder 
is faced back (Lesson S3). 

Make eyelets (Lesson 25) on both sides of all 
three openings, and lace down with linen or elastic 
lacing. The band from which the front of the skirt 
falls is rather loosely fitted from exactly under the 
arms where there is but little necessity to enlarge. 

Allowance must be made that enough goods is 
left at the top of the skirt to extend the front and 
sides as the figure demands in order that the skirt 
will hang evenly all way around. 



Lesson 100.— MATERNITY SKIRT. 

A maternity skirt is cut after a special maternity skirt pattern, but it is 
seamed and faced and finished the same as given in the regular lesson on 
skirt making. It should have a good sized pleat at each seam, and an exten- 
tion at the top for lengthening front and sides, and a very pliable, easy stretch- 
ing elastic band is used for the belt. See instructions (Lesson 76), for making. 

IT QA~rt X Zoa-Phora Pile Remedy 

/*phOHA 



(Trade Mark.) 



Ten minutes of time and 50 cents for a full month's treatment 
of this well-known meritorious effective Remedy, will forever 
convince you that to suffer with this disease is positively un- 
necessary. Pull directions in each package. Go to your 
druggist today ana procure a month's treatment before your 
disease becomes more deep seated and chronic. No matter 
how serious your case you will find the ZOA-PHORA PILE 
REMEDY — the one safe, reliable and satisfactory treatment. 
Accept no substitute. Sample sent FREE upon request. 

ZOA-PHORA REMEDIES COMPANY, Toledo, Ohio 

See page 96 for list of Cleveland's best known druggists who handle the full line of Zoa-Phora Remedies 



PILE REMEDY 

ZOA-PHORA CO., Proprietors, 

KALAMAZOO, - MICHIGAN. 

PRICE, 50 CENTS. 



Page 81 



CHAPTER IV. 
THE SCHOOL GIRL'S WARDROBE. 

To the girl who is away from home or the one without a mother to look 
after her wardrobe we have made out a list of necessary articles and you will 
find the list most useful in planning your wardrobe. 



-WOMAN'S FRIEND 



FOR 



Growing Girls 

For over 50 years Zoa-Phora has 
proven an invaluable remedy to 
meet the needs of weak, nervous, 
sickly girls and women. 

Zoa-Phora is Dr. Pengelly's pri- 
vate prescription for women, es- 
pecially~compounded to purify and 
enrich the blood, build up the 
tissues^strengthen the nerves and 
put the entire constitution in har- 
monious condition. Zoa-Phora is 
purely a vegetable compound — no 
alcohol, opiates, narcotics or other 
dangerous or harmful drugs. 

Read our Special Offer Page 96 of this Book. 



1 — Light warm woolen combination 
suits. 

2 — Under vests. 

3 — Combination corset covers and 
drawers. 

4 — Petticoats. 

5 — White petticoats. 

6 — Hosiery. 

7 — Shoes. 

8 — School dress. 

9 — Church dress. 
10 — Party dress. 
11 — House gown. 
12 — Hair ornaments. 
13— Millinery. 
1 4— Handkerchief s. 
15 — Collars and ties, belts and acces- 
sories. 

16 — Night gowns. 
17 — Bath robes. 
18 — Corset waists. 
19 — Sweater. 
20— Cloak. 
21 — Furs. 



Do not make the mistake of going without sufficient underwear and of a 
quality to give you sufficient warmth and have all of your lingerie plain and 
dainty. Get your shoes of sensible style and thickness and large enough to 
be comfortable regardless of the season or fashion. You will find on the fol- 
lowing pages suggestions of appropriate styles for your gowns, together with 
complete instructions for the making of them and if you are a wise girl you 
will begin with the first lesson of this book and master every point of plain 
and fancy needlework for it is one of the most refined acquirements possible 
for a gentlewoman to attain. Special attention should be paid to your corsets, 
for during the pliable age, while you are growing you can seriously injure 
yourself and your health, by wearing a badly fitted corset. We would recom- 
mend the Berthe May "Hebe" Corset, for every girl entering womanhood, as 
it will give you all the beautiful curves and angles without the discomfort and 
danger of the modern corset. All of your garments should be simple and 

Page 82 



girlish, as nothing is more unattractive than rich elegant garments worn by 
a sweet faced girl, whose youth and its natural qualities need no artificial 
adornment. Remember immaculate, sensible, dainty garments will win for 
you a thousand fold more admiration than magnificent, gorgeous effects 
suitable for the stage or at best for older women, whose natural charms are 
beginning to wane. 



GIRL'S DRESSES. 

Girl's dresses are made exactly on the same principle as a lady's dress. 
The style shown is one widely approved of and very popular for graduating, 
party and summer dresses. Follow instructions for making as found in Les- 
son 91. 

Lesson 102.— GOWN 3911.— Make 
exactly according to Lesson 91, omit- 
ting hemming, if the material has 
embroidery edge, and if no lining 
omit X2 — X6, and if without collar 
omit Xll. 




Lesson 101. — GIRLS SCHOOL 
DRESS. 

Follow instructions for shirt waist 
(Lesson 89). 
Collar (Lesson 63). 
Skirt (Lesson 95). 




Piano and 
Mandolin 
Lessons 

Orchestra 
Practice 

Choral Classes 



Apply to the 

Young Women's Christian 
^Association 

Prospect Avenue and East 18th 
CLEVELAND, OHIO 



West Side Branch 
Franklin and W. 32nd 



Broadway Branch 
Broadway and Hollister St. 



Junior and 
Industrial 
Clubs 

Membership 
Parties 

Bible Classes 



Page 83 



WHOOPING COUGH 

DUNHAM'S SPECIFIC. Especially pre- 
pared for Whooping Cough. Shortens and 
lightens the disease. Prevents bronchial dis- 
eases. Quickly cures Croup, severe Coughs, 
Colds. Physicians recommend it. Used in 
Cleveland Orphan Asylums 20 years. At 
Druggists, 5 oz. bot. 50 cts., 12 oz. bot. $1.00. 

Lickes Drug Co. M'f 'rs, Cleveland, O. 



CHILDREN'S CLOTHES. 

There is perhaps no department of 
sewing where an economical wife and 
mother can save to more advantage 
by doing the work herself than in 
the making of the children's clothes. 
Every mother desires to see her little 
ones daintily dressed and this requires 
more labor and care and expense than 
is usually figured on. 

The main point in planning children's garments is to have them as plain 
and appropriate as possible, and in every instance possible should be of wash 
goods such as linens, percales, ginghams, poplins, repps, piques, etc., but in 
the winter either underwear heavy enough to fully protect the child from the 
cold must be provided or woolen dresses of serge, flannel, novelty goods or 
any warm material must be worn. In the latter instance the guimpe or sleeves 
and yoke should always be of wash goods, so that it can be kept perfectly 
clean. It is hardly economical to make boys clothing after they leave the "Buster 
Brown" period, so we do not take up space in giving this instruction. 



Lesson 104.— CHILDREN'S DRESSES. 




Make all tucks in goods before cutting (Lesson 



54). 



Cut (Lesson 76). 

Close seams, either plain (Lesson 41), or 
French seams (Lesson 47). 

Make ruffles and attach (Lesson 56). 

Make sleeves and put in (Lesson 69). 

Make collar (Lesson 68). 

Hem (Lesson 48). 

Close with dainty buttons and small button- 
holes (Lessons 29-30). 



Page 84 



Lesson 105.— CHILDREN'S WAISTS AND DRAWERS. 




Cut out (Lesson 76). 

Join French seams (Lesson 47). 

Face neck, armholes, bottom of 
waist (Lesson S3). 

Hem drawers (Lesson 48). 

If , edging is used overcast on 
neatly (Lesson 57). 

Put band on drawers (Lesson 
64), make buttonholes to button on 
waist (Lesson 29). 

Sew a bias band around waist 
line and sew on buttons (Lesson 30). 

Fasten up back with washable but- 
tons, and make buttonholes or sew on 
loops of elastic cord. 



Lesson 106.— CHILD'S COAT. 

A child's coat is made after the same 
general principles as the gown, except 

instead of ruffles over the shoulders a 

cape if desired may be made. The cape 

may be lined or unlined and is joined at 

the neck, the seam hidden by the facing 

of the collar. 




4483 



Page 85 



BELLE VERNON MILK 



the Best Milk 



Lesson 109. — ROMPERS. — Every mother should 

provide her child with rompers, for they are a com- 
fortable, sensible garment for the little one to play in, 
and saves the mother much care and thought concerning 
his clothes. 

Cut (see Lesson 76). 

Sew up straight seams (Lesson 41). 

Gather at knees. 

Make sleeves (Lesson 69). 

Put on collar (Lesson 68). 

Make pocket (Lesson 73). 

Make belt (Lesson 64). 




^3800 



CHAPTER VII. 
INFANTS WARDROBE. 

To the prospective mother, especially one expecting for the first time, 
it is usually a question as to just what they are to make, and how many of 

each article to make, so below we 
will give a list of absolutely nec- 
essary garments and articles to- 
gether with an idea of about the 
number of each that the average 
expectant mother should have pre- 
pared: Six dresses, six bands, 
three petticoats (white), three 
petticoats (flannel), three pinning 
blankets, six night slips, one ki- 
mona, three wrappers, three sacks, 
one coat, one veil, three dozen 
diapers, one diaper cover, six pair 
bootees, one cap, six pair hose, 
six bibs; and a layout containing 
all necessary toilet articles, tal- 
cum powder, infant's comb and 
brush, safety pins, etc. 

The little articles necessary 

to a child's wardrobe are very 

simple and easy to make, and if 

mother has the time to spare, she usually prefers doing much of the work 

Page 86 




Lesson 110.— MAKING THE INFANT'S OUTFIT.— The dress is made 
the same as instructed (Lesson 104) child's dress except very much longer. 

The petticoat, both flannel and the dainty white ones are made under 
same instructions as Lesson 105. 

The coat, (see Lesson 106). 

The little flannel jackets are made in one piece and the edges should be 
embroidered or neatly bound with pink or blue ribbon. The night gown, 
follow instructions for making child's gown (Lesson 104). 



PRINCESS SLIP. 

Cut (Lesson 76). 

Sew up seams (Lessons 41 and 47). 

Make and put in sleeves (Lesson 69). 

Hem back the fronts (Lesson 48). 

Hem bottom of skirt (Lesson 48). 

Make and attach collar (Lesson 68). 

Make buttonholes (Lesson 29). 

Sew on buttons (Lesson 30). 

Sew on lace or fine embroidery edging (Lesson 57), or if lace or em- 
broidery edging is not used you may feather stitch around the edge of the 
collar and down the front on either side of the buttonholes and many prefer 
to feather stitch the hem (see Lesson 18). 

Kimona (see Lesson 86). 

Bibs should be of double thickness, the edges turned in and finished with 
an edging of lace or feather stitched, and made as daintily as possible. 

Diapers should be made of good cotton diaper cloth, of Birdseye linen or 
Canton flannel, cut square, and neatly hem by hand. A rubber diaper should 
be made for protection on occasions § when you are traveling or taking your 
child away from home, but it should not be worn at all times as the ordinary 
waterproof diapers are not porous enough to let the air properly to the child's 
body. 




While Preparing for the Coming of the 
Little One, the Mother's Health 
Should Be the First Consideration. 

CAN anything be more vitally important 
than that the organs of maternity of the 
mother be in a perfect state of health and 
strength to undergo this trying ordeal? The 
expectant mother should begin to take ZOA- 
PHORA as soon as pregnancy is known from 
time to time as needed according to directions, 
and should take regularly during the last 
month of confinement and for one or two 
months after birth. This treatment is a posi- 
tive aid in maintaining a good condition of 
health during confinement, quick and easy 
delivery at birth, and a rapid recovery of nat- 
ural health and strength afterward. 



Read the Special Offer as Given on Page 97 



Ex pectant 
mothers can 
not afford to 
be without 



Woman's Friend 



Page 87 



CLEANING. 

The cleaning of clothes and accessories of the dress is often a problem, 
for careful consideration must always be given to the nature of the spot and 
the material, for a process or chemical that removes the spot from one ma- 
terial will set the stain in or ruin another material. You can do considerable 




CLOTHES 

kept beautifully clean and in 

"crisp freshness" by every 

dainty housewife 

WITH 

CUMMER'S 

ENERGINE 



AT ALL 
GOOD 
STORES 



C 





CUMMER'S 

SHOE DRESSINGS 

The Proper Dressing 
For EVERY Shoe 



Ask Your Shoeman 



mShT- ■^!S>w b 



CUMMER'S 

Perfect 

(JAflVAS 
J^RESSING 



ffltCUMMEflPHODUCTSCO 

CltVEtAIO.0»«> 






I OMOINATION 

'SHOE 
DRESSING" 






wuwmu moms cs 
i ei«n.«m. M i(. 




Page 88 



THE UNIVERSAL DRY CLEANSING CO. 

// it isn't "Universal Dry Cleansing" 
It isn't the best. 

Call Us Up — Phones. Auto Call and Delivery Service. 

General Offices and Laboratories \2\$ tO 1230 East 71st St. 

Down Town Store 532 Euclid Avenue 

of your own cleaning at home by using Cummer's Energine, which will clean 
perfectly woolen goods, silks, laces, furs, kid gloves, leathers, felts, feathers 
and almost anything cleanable, and it should always be kept on hand to keep 
your articles in good fresh condition. However, there are many garments 
that must be dry cleaned, and care should be taken to select a reliable place, 
otherwise your article may be returned to you ruined. We give you in these 
pages the addresses of first class establishments, where you can depend upon 
your work being properly done. 

Nevertheless you will need a few suggestions for removing the spots and 
stains that are so apt to get on your clothes and which you may desire to 
try to remove yourself. 

Blood Stains: — Soak the stains in cold water over night, then rinse and 
wash carefully in tepid soap suds. If the article is such that it can be boiled, 
it should then be put in very hot water, in which has been added a mixture of 
equal parts of "Elwako", and good laundry soap. Boil from 20 to 30 minutes, 
and rinse thoroughly in clear tepid water. 

Brass Stains. — Rub pure lard on stain and leave for a few hours, then 
wash in tepid soap suds and proceed as lor removing blood stains, if the 
goods can be boiled. 

Cocoa Stains. — Soak in cold water, then pour boiling water through the 
spot until the stain has entirely disappeared, then wash in tepid soap suds 
and proceed as for blood stains, if the stain is on a washable article. 

Coffee Stains:— Do not soak or put into soap suds until boiling water has 
been poured through the cloth until the stain is removed. Then follow direc- 
tions as for removing blood stains. 

Fruit Stains: — Follow directions as for removing coffee stains, or if on 
white goods, soak the stain in salts of lemon, and then rinse in ammonia water. 

Grass Stains: — Must be removed with alcohol. If on thin goods pour out 
a little alcohol in a bowl and rub out the stain, or if on heavier goods, dip 
a cotton cloth into the alcohol, rubbing until the stain disappears. It is the 
alcohol that removes the stain and not the rubbing, so the main point is to 
have your cloth well saturated with the alcohol. 

Grease Spots on any fabric, woolen, silk or cotton can most effectively 
be removed with Cummer's Energine — full instructions for its use are found 
on the bottle. 

Ink Spots: — There are many ways of removing ink spots. If the spot is 
still moist cover with sugar, salt or flour until you have absorbed all the ink 
possible, then wash in sweet milk and rinse in clear tepid water, or if the ink 

Page 89 



Zoa-Phora Balm 

No Family Supply is Complete Without this Well 
Known Ointment---within easy reach at all times 

For Chapped or Cracked Hands, Insect Bites, Bruises, Scalds, all Common Skin Diseases; 

Rough Skin, Burns, Blisters, Eruptions, Boils, Chafes and Children's Sore Throat, 

Croup, Cold on the Lungs, Piles. Catarrh and Colds in the Head. 

D • Off D D ALL FIRST CLASS DRUGGISTS 

i rice Zjc rer oox will supply you 



has dried wash out the ink stains in the milk and rinse as above directed. 
Or you may soak the stain in salts of lemon, or oxalic acid until the ink has 
been removed, or to a pint of water add one-fourth pound of sal soda, and one 
ounce of chloride of lime; soak the stain in this solution for half an hour, and 
then rinse in clear cold water. 

Iodine Stains can best be removed with chloroform, but as this is a very 
dangerous drug to work with it is usually better to send your garment to a 
cleaner, than to attempt to do the work yourself. 

Machine Oil: — Wash with cold water and a pure white soap, if the material 
will wash, if not rub wet borax over the spot and rinse in clear cold water. 

Mildew: — Soak in buttermilk for 24 hours, rinse in clear tepid water, and 
spread on grass in sun. 

Paint Spots: — Rub with vaseline until paint is softened, then wash in ben- 
zine or gasoline; or rub out the spots in equal parts of turpentine and alcohol, 
or turpentine and ammonia, then wash in gasoline or benzine. 

Perspiration Stains: — Sponge with a weak solution of hydrochloric acid. 
until the stain is removed or the colors clear, then wash gently in tepid soap 
suds and rinse in clear tepid water. 

Rust Stains may be removed by soaking in a diluted solution of hydro- 
chloric acid and rinsing in clear cold water. 

Scorch Marks can be effectively removed only by sunshine. 

Tea Stains: — Follow directions for removing coffee stains. 

Vaseline Spots: — Rub out in kerosene and wash in tepid soap suds and 
rinse in clear tepid water. 



Cleaners for 
Bell Phone / [J Particular People Prompt 

Edd y 2192 ^*^/S-r T s**n f^k Service 



r ump 



Cuy. Phone C- 5 ^^ Z/^» We Call For 

Crest234 - W ^§S3S3Rgg0r and Deliver 

13256 Euclid Avenue and 13430 Euclid Avenue 

Page 90 



North 776 



Cent. 7420-R 



The Cedar Cleaning Works 

Cleaning, Dyeing 
and Feather Work 



2420 Cedar Ave. 



Cleveland, Ohio 



Doan 337-L 



Res. Phone, Princt . 2906-L 



Snow Flake Hand Laundry 

Fine Lingerie and Lace 
Curtains Specialties 



ALL WORK GUARANTEED 
Fannie Hamlet, Prop. 2336 E. 90th Street 



DYEING. 

Many old or shabby garments can be dyed and renovated and made over 
and months of service gotten from them, where without dyeing they would be 
useless. Old and worn curtains, rugs, table covers and various other articles 
may be dyed and brightened up, in fact making them in many cases, appear 
as good as new and that at but a few cents of expense. 

Peacock Dyes are put up in collapsible tubes, and are much cleaner and 
easier to handle than the old-fashioned dry powder dyes. Unlike the old-time 
dyes, you can use the same dye for any fabric, whether it be of animal or 
vegetable nature. They are easy and simple to use, and do not stain the hands, 
so that it takes day to wear off, like many other dyes. 

There are in all instances a few precautions in dyeing you must always 
follow. Do not expect to dye a dark piece of goods a light shade, as it is 
impossible to dye a dark colored fabric a lighter color. The color of the 
fabric which you are about to dye has nearly as much effect on the result as 
the dye you use. If, for instance, you have a yellow dress and use a blue 
dye, the result will be a green. The best plan is to try a small piece of goods 
first, and see the result, before putting in the article to be dyed. When dying, 
do not crowd the goods, but keep them moving by stirring occasionally with 
a wooden stick. 

In taking goods from the dye bath, do not throw away the solution until 
goods are dry, so that in case the desired shade is not obtained, the goods 
may be put back in the same dye bath, and dyed a deeper shade, thus saving 
time and additional expense. It is advisable, when dyeing, to put a small 
piece of material in with the larger pieces, so that it may be taken out from 
time to time, to see if the desired shade is obtained, without removing the 
article itself. 

When several pieces are to be dyed the same shade, they should all be 
put in the dye bath at the same time, otherwise a variety of shades would be 
the probable result. 

In discharging or removing old colors from material that has been prev- 
iously dyed, it is always best to discharge or remove as much of the old color 
as possible. This can be accomplished by boiling the goods, if cotton or silk. 
Boil from one-half to three-quarters of an hour in a bath containing soap, 
changing the water when it becomes discolored, if necessary, two or three 
times. 



Page 91 



When removing color from wool, no soap should be used, as it tends to 
soften the wool. The removal of old color is very important in dyeing articles 
that have been previously dyed, as the newly dyed material will not come out 
bright and uniform, owing to some of the old color discharging when the 
article is put into the bath of new color. 



PEACOCK DYES 

For Home Dyeing 

THE ONE DYE FOR ALL FABRICS 



For dyeing Cotton, Wools, Silks, Linens, Mixed Goods, 
Raffia, Chipped Straw, Feathers, Basketry, etc. 

By the use of Peacock Dyes in the household a great many 
old, worn and shabby Clothes, Curtains, Tablecovers, Rugs, 
etc., may be dyed, making them appear as good as new. 

Peacock Dyes are put up in collapsible tubes, making 
them much easier and cleaner to handle than the old fash- 
ioned powder dyes. 

FULL DIRECTIONS ON EACH TUBE. 



Apple Green 


Dark Blue 


Scarlet 


Black 


Blue Green 


Navy Blue 


Turkey Red 


Orange 


Dark Green 


Cardinal Red 


Pink 


Yellow 


Green 


Crimson 


Purple 


Brown 


Light Blue 


Garnet 


Grey 


Seal Brown 



Sample card showing colors, sent on request. 

Peacock Dyes sell at 15c per tube. If your dealer does 
not keep them, we will forward any color to you at 15c per 
tube. 

F. W. Devoe & C. T. Raynolds Co. 

NEW YORK and CHICAGO 

Page 92 



LAUNDERING. 

In this present day of good laundries the hardest and most laborious part of 
the work can be sent away, yet there are always numberless small things, or those 
ot a dainty, delicate texture or color, or perhaps some pieces which one prizes very 
highly and one desires to have done at home. You must be most careful in this 



SETTLES THE 
WASH-DAY QUESTION 



NO LYE 
NO ACID 




WILL 
MAKE 



YOUR CLOTHES 

CLEAN*WHITE 

WITHOUT RUBBING 



SOLD BY GROCERS 



YOU SHOULD USE ELWAKO 

in your weekly washing. Because thousands of other women have 
learned by practical experience that it saves the hard labor of rubbing 
and dispenses with the washboard; that articles washed with ELWAKO 
last twice as long as when rubbed, whether they be Table Linen, 
Bedding, Curtains or personal apparel, and that it makes white clothes 
WHITE, not gray or yellow. 

ELWAKO is not a Soap nor a Soap Powder. It is a scientific 
Washing Compound to be used in connection with any good Laundry 
Soap in accordance with directions printed on each package. It 
contains no Lye or Acid, and will not injure any fabric. It is invaluable 

IN YOUR LAUNDRY WORK 

It is sold by most Grocers. If you are not now using it, get a 
package from your Grocer. If he does not keep it, send us Ten 
Cents in stamps and we will mail you, postpaid, a package of regular 
size, sufficient for four family washings, with full directions for using. 

We also manufacture ELWAKO CARPET CLEANER, which does 
wonderful work. One 25 cent can will clean any common sized rug 
or carpet without rinsing or removing from the floor, and restores all 
the original brilliancy of color without injury. Ask your grocer for it also. 

Elwako Manufacturing Co., Cleveland, 0. 

1120 Prospect Ave., S. E. 



Page 93 



work, for a badly laundered article is worthless to a particular or refined woman. 

You should first see that you have a good laundry soap ; many of the cheaper 
soaps, that you get on bargain counters, are worse than worthless, as they will 
turn your clothes yellow and fade and cause the colors to run. 

Then always use a good laundry aid, one which will remove the dirt and 
stains and germs without the unnecessary labor of rubbing, for you can wear your 
articles out more by rubbing them over a rough washboard than you would wear 
them out in a week of almost constant service. We suggest the use of "Elwako,'' 
as it positively contains no lye, acid or substance of any' kind which will injure 
the most delicate fabric, and it will make your clothes clean and whte with a 
saving of labor, time and wear on your clothing. Further, be careful to get good 
bluing and good starch and if possible have your clothes hanged out of doors, 
where they can get the full benefit of the air and sun. 

First. — Sort over your clothes, being sure that nothing with a color in it is 
put with the all-white clothes, and if you have a large number of pieces, sort the 
coarser from the finer and wash the finer first, and soak white pieces in cold water 
over night. 

Second. — Shave one small cake of Elwako and one bar of any good laundry 
soap together in three pints of water and boil and stir until they are thoroughly 
blended. 

Third. — Put one-half of this mixture into a washboiler containing very hot 
water and fill the boiler with the clothes, wrung out of the cold water. 

Fourth. — Boil from 20 to 30 minutes and wrinse thoroughly through one or 
two tubs of tepid water and then through bluing water. 

Fifth.— -Starch and hang on line, being sure that the corners are well fastened, 
so the articles will not blow about and tear or become stretched out of shape. 

Sixth. — When dry, sprinkle with tepid water and roll tightly and leave for at 
least one hour, but over night is better. 

Seventh. — Iron with great care, taking precautions to always keep the garment 
in perfect form or you may render it unsightly by ironing out of shape. 



North 975 
Central 3280-W 



Prospect Avenue and East 14th Street 

A Particular Laundry for Cleveland 

Particular People Ohio 

Page 94 



WHAT IS ZOA-PHORA? 

THIS question "What Is Zoa-Phora" is asked hundreds of times daily — 
asked by intelligent women seeking a satisfactory, rational, plain, honest 
reply. Before using a treatment a sensible woman wants to know what 
she is using — she is perfectly justified in demanding an honest and straight- 
forward answer. Our remedies are used by the thinking class of women 
throughout the United States and we are giving you a few reasons why you 
are safe in choosing Zoa-Phora in preference to all other remedies and why 
you are guaranteed satisfaction. When you know what Zoa-Phora really is 
you will be convinced if you are suffering with any form of disease peculiar to 
women, that you have found a treatment perfected to the limit of modern 
medical discovery. The following indisputable evidence will convince the most 
skeptical of the merits and value of Zoa-Phora. 

1. Zoa-Phora is one of the oldest reliable preparations on the market for the treatment 
of diseases of women. It has, for nearly 50 years, relieved and cured the very worst forms of 
Female Trouble and ailments peculiar to women, and given entire satisfaction. 

2. Zoa-Phora is not an ordinary patent medicine— not some dope handed down by an 
ignorant layman, but Zoa-Phora is the prescription of Dr. Pengelly, one of the greatest 
Specialists of his age in the treatment of the diseases of women. 

3. Zoa-Phora contains no alcohol — positively not one drop is used; therefore, Zoa-Phora 
does not make drunkards or a craving for stimulants. 

4. Zoa-Phora is a vegetable compound. It is manufactured only of the best and most 
valuable roots and herbs known to science. Zoa-Phora is Nature's own restorative and cure. 

5. Zoa-Phora does not contain minerals, opiates, narcotics, or any dangerous or 
harmful drugs. It does not make "drug fiends," as do some of the cheap, inferior preparations 
on the market. 

6. Zoa-Phora contains only the best and purest of drugs. No expense is spared in its 
preparation. Positively the best ingredients known to modern medical science are used in its 
composition. 

7. Zoa-Phora is not a secret formula. We are not afraid to publish to every woman and 
to every physician and to the whole world, just what Zoa-Phora is compounded of. Does not this 
prove that Zoa-Phora is beyond question all that it is claimed to be? Write today and we will 
send you a copy of its formula. 

8. Zoa-Phora is compounded to cure. It is indeed (Woman's Friend). No alcohol in it to 
excite the nervous system and make you feel fine for a few hours and then leave you weak and 
exhausted. No opiates or narcotics to suddenly deaden your pain and in time ruin your nervous 
system. Zoa-Phora begins at the seat of your trouble and builds up every part of your body, 
especially the sexual organism. Maiden, Wife, Mother, and Grandmother find it the best woman's 
tonic to carry them safely through the various changes of womanhood. If you want to be cured, 
give Zoa-Phora a chance to do its good work, and you will then know to your own satisfaction 
and benefit just what Zoa-Phora really is. 



In addition to the splendid tonic effects of Zoa-Phora many women need a good local treatment 
and in order to encourage the use of our Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones in all cases when 
needed we are making the following offer of a full Ten Days' Treatment of our Zoa-Phora 
Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones (further information on page 79 of this book). 

Present this coupon to your nearest druggist. If your druggist has no free box for you have him 
write us. 

With the purchase of one Dollar-size bottle of Zoa-Phora the bearer is entitled to a full ten 
days' special treatment of the Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Cones which the Zoa-Phora Company are 
supplying the drug trade free of charge for this purpose. 

Page 95 



DEC 19 1912 



One Set of Silver Teaspoons Free 

To Users of Zoa-Phora 



\L 



These beautiful teaspoons axe of 
the favorite Narcissus pattern, 
best triple plated, fully warran- 
ted, and will wear a life time. 



Send us the front of the carton or box from any one of the 
packages in each of three divisions below arranged and 
the full set of SIX TRIPLE PLATED, FULLY WAR- 
RANTED TEASPOONS will be sent you by return mail. 

Number 1 
Zoa-Phora (Woman's Friend) - - $1.00 

Number 2 
Zoa-Phora Cold Remedy .50 

Zoa-Phora La Grippe Remedy - - .50 

Zoa-Phora Pile Remedy .50 

Zoa-Phora Antiseptic Vitalizing Cones - .50 

Number 3 

Zoa-Phora Balm ----- .25 

Zoa-Phora Digestive Tablets - .25 

Zoa-Phora Stomach and Liver Pills - - .25 

Zoa-Phora Anti-Constipation Pills - - .25 

Not One Cent to Pay for the Teaspoons 
Now or Later 

Send us the three wrappers or cartons as indicated above, 
which means one Zoa-Phora (Woman's Friend) wrapper and 
your choice of any one of the remedies in Number Two and 
one from Number Three. 



You can procure Zoa-Phora from every first class druggist in Cleveland, 
including the 

Marshall Drug Stores Standard Drug Stores 

The May Co. Purity Drug Co., etc. 

And in Lakewood and Detroit Avenue the full line of Zoa-Phora supplies 
can be procured from 

Lindsley Drug Co., 4706 Detroit Avenue 
Wilson Drug Co., 11600 Detroit Avenue 
Alford Crocker, 15621 Detroit Avenue 
Ludwig Pharmacy, 16924 Detroit Avenue 
Dole, 18503 Detroit Avenue 



Go today to your nearest druggist and procure the remedies 
you need and send the faces from the packages direct to 

The Zoa-Phora Remedies Co. 

1803 Adams Street TOLEDO, OHIO 



Page 96 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




014 080 524 5 



